Never thought I’d be against globalization… the advent of the internet and easy access to the Bourdain, Zimmern, Michelin, Pellegrino 50, Neflix I think has created this ‘global’ class of foodies. They all chase the same restaurants and hold things to the same standard. In some ways I think this is an easy and safe route to obtain one’s credibility as a ‘serious’ foodie. Rattling off names like Noma, Chang, Momofuku, Per Se, Saito, Arpege, Robuchon, Keller, Tim Ho Wan etc etc easily recognized by their peers regardless of whether they’re in Dubai, Singapore, New York, Rome, Beijing etc… I have some cousins abroad who never considered visiting LA for food prior to Neflix’s Inaka feature. I’m mean why would you? There were no Pellegrino, Michelin rated restaurants to brag about back home. You’re better off visiting NYC, SF or Chicago. But now you can brag about dining at the world famous Inaka and in a month Michelin too!!!
Based on my personal experience Michelin has been more misses than hits specifically as it relates to non-French cities (perhaps you can include Europe). The 1* list in NYC over the last few years have been quite awful… the 2 and 3* for the most part are predictably boring. Think anywhere’ville nordic, frenchy plated fare.
The crowd that travels the world collecting stars all dine at the same restaurants, stay at the same hotels, buy the same clothing ‘luxury’ brands, watches, toting the same Leica cameras etc… don’t they all eventually start looking the same? Restaurants as a result are all morphing globally in the same fashion… they’re all updating their traditional cuisines with the same techniques and presentation. Seriously just pick the account of X heavily trafficked instagram foodie and you’ll have a tough time telling which country the pictures are from.
I think this is why CH came about many years ago and FTC exists today and I expect some derivative of these will continue to exist in the future. These forums exist for those tired of the au courant formulaic or mass adopted dining references or ranking readily available. Don’t you wish you stumbled upon El Bulli, Noma, Faviken, Inaka when its was crickets in the dining room? The CH manifesto does a good job summing it up.
Coming back to Michelin, it offers a view of the food world through the lens of your distant French foodie uncle. It’s a great starting point but if you rely on this exclusively, you’ll miss out on a whole lot of what a city has to offer (except maybe if you’re in France). So boils down to - do you want to be surprised or just follow the well trodden path?