Update 3:
It had been too long since our last visit to Mori Sushi and the wonderful Omakase experience with Chef-Owner Masanori “Maru” Nagano. Mori Sushi finally changed out their old sign with a new one featuring just a logo.
A well-deserved Michelin Star in 2019 on display:
Sitting down in front of Maru-san, the relaxing, calm atmosphere, clean, simple place settings help set the mood.
Maru-san was already busy, hard at work prepping some dishes for a few tables in the back. On this evening it was about 90% full (with almost every table taken up and the Sushi Bar).
We were originally going to order @beefnoguy’s recommended Tatsuriki - Yokawa Yoneda Junmai Daiginjo Sake, but besides the baller price tag, Maru-san recommended this other Sake for this evening over the Tatsuriki:
Koshi no Kanbai - Kinmuku “Milky Way” - Junmai Daiginjo Sake (Niigata, Japan):
I love the 2 previous Koshi no Kanbai Sakes that we’ve tried. Maru-san explains that he has a personal affection and attachment to Koshi no Kanbai: It was his first “serious Sake” that he experienced when he was younger, and that’s why he carries the main lineup today.
The Kinmuku (“Milky Way”) is the highest end Koshi no Kanbai that Mori Sushi carries, but it feels very fairly priced considering the taste. The first sip is absolutely stunning:
It’s delicate, lightly fruity with a few interesting layers as you’re sipping. But then it finishes like air: Pure, clean, wow! Absolutely a delight to drink! (@beefnoguy @Sgee @J_L @TheCookie @foodshutterbug and others.)
Housemade Tofu with Karasumi and Mt. Fuji Wasabi:
We start off this evening with Maru-san’s famous Housemade Tofu, so silky and smooth, topped with Housemade Karasumi (Dried Mullet Roe) that Maru-san made(!), giving it a nice, gentle brininess, along with a gentle sweet, spicy finish from Fresh Wasabi Root from Mount Fuji, Japan.
(Zensai Course) Namadako - Fresh Giant Octopus (Hokkaido, Japan); Aosa - Special Seaweed (Ise, Japan); Wakamomo - Baby Peach; Ko-hi- Kuri - Coffee-Infused Chestnut; Kunsei Hon Maguro - Smoked Tuna (Boston, U.S.A.); Pickled Konjak; Nasu Dengaku - White Miso Glazed Eggplant; Roasted Ginkgo Nut; Uchiwa Ebi - Fan Lobster (Kyushu, Japan):
Maru-san excels at the Zensai Course, celebrating the season. For this evening (it was right before New Year’s), it was clear there were a few bites Maru-san was preparing for his Osechi Ryori (New Year’s Dishes), as they reminded me of the amazing Japanese New Year’s dishes he prepared for us last year.
Every bite was a delight. The details here can be easily lost, but pay attention to the introduction and savor each bite for maximum enjoyment. The Aosa (Special Seaweed) from Ise, Japan had a beautiful texture and delicate bite I hadn’t had before.
The Wakamomo (Baby Peach), wonderful! Same for the Coffee-Infused Japanese Chestnut which is most likely what will be on the Osechi Ryori (New Year’s) Omakase, unique, standout and brilliant.
I loved the Kunsei Hon Maguro (Smoked Bluefin Tuna) with a gentle smokiness pervading each bite.
The Steamed Abalone: Outstanding!
But the highlight might very well be the Uchiwa Ebi - Fan Lobster (Kyushu, Japan):
I haven’t had Uchiwa Ebi before, and it was fantastic! Tender, meaty morsels, inbetween Spot Prawns and a more delicate Lobster, and look at the Fan Lobster Roe! SO GOOD! (@PorkyBelly @J_L @Sgee @A5KOBE @beefnoguy and others!)
(Owan Course) Renkon Manju - Housemade Lotus Root “Confection” + Uni (Santa Barbara, U.S.A.):
Usually when you hear the word “Manju” you might think of the light, steamed Japanese sweet filled with something like Azuki Red Beans. In this Owan Course, Maru-san makes his own “Manju” out of Lotus Root(!), pounded and pulverized so that it becomes this amazing earthy, tender sphere, topped with stunningly fresh Uni (Sea Urchin) that was flawless (zero bad oceanic aftertaste). The Housemade Dashi Broth was the perfect complement, so clean and pure.
Time for Sushi!
Tai no Kobujime - Wild Snapper Wrapped in Konbu (Kyushu, Japan):
A great start to the progression, the Tai being lightly meaty, clean, delicate. I noticed the Rice being particular amazing and we mentioned it to Maru-san.
It turns out Maru-san has changed the legendary Rice at Mori Sushi! He (and his predecessor, Morihiro Onodera) had already been getting a special grain of Rice sent to the restaurant from a particular farm, but now Maru-san has been working with a farm in Japan to get Sasa Nishiki Rice, a special grain that he mentions certain outstanding Sushi-yas in Japan also use. Maru-san mentions that this particular type of Rice was used long ago, but not so much nowadays.
Suffice to say the Rice blows away every single Sushi Bar in L.A. / O.C. It’s not even close. Outstanding! (@beefnoguy @PorkyBelly)
Hotate - Scallop (Hokkaido, Japan):
Silky, tender, so bright and fresh.
Mizudako - Giant Octopus (Hokkaido, Japan):
While slippery and tender, it was pretty chewy.
Hata - Grouper (Mie, Japan):
Shima Aji - Striped Jack (Ehime, Japan):
Stunning! We’ve had plenty of excellent Shima Aji around the city, but Maru-san’s preparation for Shima Aji on this visit was like nothing we’ve had before: The Striped Jack was firm, meaty, but having a gentle lusciousness and tenderness as well.
Tasmanian Ocean Trout:
Maru-san finishes this flawless Tasmanian Ocean Trout with his Housemade Smoked Soy Sauce, giving each luscious bite a perfect complement.
Buri - Mature Yellowtail (Toyama, Japan):
What a great season for Buri right now: Creamy, tender, full of flavor, lightly fatty.
Saba - Mackerel (Kyushu, Japan):
The Saba was perhaps the only miss of the evening, not really bad, but just lacking that amazing deep oily brininess that great Saba has.
Suma Katsuo - Black Skipjack (Aomori, Japan):
This was a new offering we’ve never had before: Suma Katsuo, which Maru-san calls “Black Skipjack” is one of his favorite Fish of the season right now. Taking a bite, you can see why: Tender, flavorful, beautiful mouthfeel.
Hon Maguro - Bluefin Tuna (Boston, U.S.A.):
Vibrant, clean, so good.
Oba Iwashi - Sardine (Chiba, Japan):
Maru-san has consistently presented stunning expressions of Iwashi (Sardine) Sushi on previous visits, but for this meal, he is beaming with delight as he’s presenting this next piece:
Oba Iwashi is a rarer, special type of Sardine according to Maru-san. He says it’s the height of the season, the best Iwashi he’s had this year. We’ve never seen him smile so broadly. Then I take a bite:
Ridiculous.
It tastes like the most beautiful day you could imagine coasting out on the ocean, there’s an inherent delicate sweetness along with that absolutely stunning briny kiss, and then you’re hit with lusciousness. It’s controlled fatty decadence. And it is the best Iwashi Sushi I’ve ever had in my life!
The Best Bite of the Year (2019)! (@PorkyBelly @J_L @beefnoguy @Sgee @CiaoBob @A5KOBE @TheCookie @paranoidgarliclover and others)
Ohtoro - Fattiest Tuna Belly (Boston, U.S.A.):
How incredible was the Special Sardine we just had? It made the Ohtoro taste mundane by comparison. As in, it was super fatty (I had one small piece of gristle), buttery, and good, but after that Iwashi?
Meh.
OK, it was good, but the Iwashi was so much more interesting, complex and had amazing fattiness that wasn’t just pure fat like in the Ohtoro. It was just outclassed.
Kohada - Gizzard Shad (Kyushu, Japan):
Meatier than the Oba Iwashi, with a nice brininess.
Hagatsuo - Striped Bonito (Kyushu, Japan):
Outstanding. Tender, nice oiliness, we liked it more than the Kohada (and Kohada is one of my favorites).
Kamasu - Barracuda (Nagasaki, Japan):
Another outstanding expression this evening: One of the best Kamasu we’ve had all year, with a delicate smokiness.
And throughout every piece of Sushi this evening, Maru-san’s new Rice is so good and makes such a great pairing!
Echizen Gani - Snow Crab (Niigata, Japan):
While Zuwaigani (Snow Crab) is already a treat when you can get it, Maru-san mentions that for this evening he got in a special type of Snow Crab from Japan called Echizen Gani. Beautifully sweet (inherently), supple, delicate. One of the highlights of the meal!
Uni - Sea Urchin (Santa Barbara, U.S.A.):
Flawless. 100% perfect. No bad oceanic aftertaste. Probably the best Uni we’ve had all year.
Kinmedai - Golden Eye Snapper (Chiba, Japan):
Kuruma Ebi - Japanese Tiger Prawn (Kawashima, Japan):
Very good, nice meatiness and delicate sweetness. Zero fishiness.
Sujiko - Fresh Salmon Roe (Hokkaido, Japan):
Different from the more commonly found Ikura at our local Sushi-ya, tonight’s Sujiko (Fresh Salmon Roe) had a more gentle, less salty taste with a nice brininess.
Anago - Sea Eel (Tsushima, Japan):
Lightly sweet, flaky, tender. Tasty.
Bafun Uni + Tsukune Imo + Shiso Temaki - Bafun Uni (Hokkaido, Japan), Mountain Yam, Shiso Leaf Handroll:
Incredible! The Santa Barbara Uni this evening was already flawless, but this Bafun Uni from Hokkaido, Japan was somehow even better. Add to that a special type of Mountain Yam that Maru-san was using (Tsukune Imo), and the ultra-crisped, crunchy Nori (Seaweed) wrapper from Saga, Japan.
SO GOOD!
Bonus Round…
Pickled Oba Iwashi - Pickled Sardine (Chiba, Japan):
Maru-san was so impressed with the Oba Iwashi he wanted to try a 2nd preparation and had been doing a Pickled Sardine version. While nowhere near as stunning as the fresh version, it was still excellent: The pickling seems to have firmed it up slightly, adding a pleasant tartness to the briny fattiness, all paired so well with his new Rice.
Ume Shiso Temaki - Japanese Plum (Wakayama, Japan) + Shiso Leaf Handroll:
We asked Maru-san to make us his current favorite Temaki, and he smiled before disappearing. He reappeared with a container he was holding delicately: In it he had special Ume (Japanese Plum) that he hand-carried from Wakayama, Japan(!). He said he fell in love with this local Wakayama Ume, and usually eats it for himself.
Taking a bite:
Wow. This Wakayama Ume is nothing like the usual Ume flavor we get at various local shops around here. It’s far more aromatic, fragrant, as if they had incorporated the Plum Blossom Flowers into the mixture. It’s inherently sweet, barely tart, luscious and amazing!
When eaten with the Shiso Leaf, Maru-san’s new Rice and that special Nori (Seaweed) wrapper from Saga, Japan that would make all Onigiri lovers (@Dommy @TheCookie and others) weep with joy, you have one of the best bites of the year (again)!
Akadashi - Hatcho Miso Soup (Aichi, Japan):
We finish up with a special Akadashi Soup, made with Hatcho Miso. Our server mentions that this recipe for making it follows a tradition that dates back 700 years(!). It is bolder, more deeply flavorful than the usual Miso Soup. Very good.
Mochi Zenzai + Persimmons with Persimmon Sauce:
Dessert was a simple, but very well made bowl of Mochi Zenzai, a Japanese sweet dessert with Red Beans. Here Maru-san mixes in a special Matcha from the Mount Fuji region of Japan.
The Persimmons were perfectly ripe, and the concentrated Persimmon Sauce (more like a Persimmon Jam or Paste) was a great, not overly sweet way to finish off the evening.
Perhaps the one hiccup tonight was the slow service for the first half of the meal. We noticed 1 new server, who looked a bit unsure and not very proactive for any of the tables or any of us at the Sushi counter. And with the restaurant nearly at 100% capacity, our Tea nor Sake weren’t refilled unless we asked. Towards the latter half (as many of the tables and other Sushi counter guests left), service got a lot better.
Mori Sushi continues to shine as our favorite Sushi restaurant in L.A. Under the watchful eye of Chef-Owner Masanori “Maru” Nagano, stunning seasonal opening plates and presentation, outstanding Sushi that reflects the best of the season, and with the best Sushi Rice in town Mori Sushi continues to be one of L.A.'s treasures.
Mori Sushi
11500 W Pico Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA 90064
Tel: (310) 479-3939
http://morisushila.com/