Revised the title to include summer as I’m just returning now from another visit to Tokyo (and a couple of day trips to Osaka).
It was hot, no getting around that. But it was also much less crowded than in April (probably about 1/3 the tourists from April). Reservations were easier to come by in general. Hotels also cost quite a bit less than they did in March/April.
In Akasaka, at the Kioicho Garden Terrace
- Oden at Manwu. A solid and relaxing spot with excellent service and a diverse oden menu with some rare finds (saezuri…whale tongue!). I walked in here on the first night and am glad that I got a counter seat. Oden is comforting and the chef and okami-san are so welcoming. Chef speaks some English and he and okami-san saw me out and bowed at the door until I was completely out of sight!
All locals but they do have an 11 or so course menu in English for foreigners for about $80. If you can order in Japanese, you can order a la carte and have a solid meal for maybe about half of that. Not the full menu just a sample
Beef tendon and bean sprouts
Daikon teriyaki
Various fish cake. Good snappy texture. One w/ gobo, one w/ ginger.
Saezuri…whale’s tongue marinated. Tastes like a mix between fatty bonito and turtle, delicious with an interesting melty, slippery chew.
Konjak noodles. Great ender with snappy texture
Counter
I believe that it’s a branch or an Osaka restaurant. Kioicho Garden Terrace is always a relaxing space. Kioicho Mitani, Mitani Bettei, and Imahan are just steps away (and all very good in their own right!).
In Nihombashi
- Katsu at Hajime Hanare. I became aware of Hajime in April when I noticed a big queue of locals for lunch. Now they recently opened a second location about a minute away, actually right next to the Tendon Hannosuke Honten (so it smells great waiting in line). Don’t be deterred gt the lines. Most of it is actually for Hannosuke. When I went around noon, there was a line of 4. Yes it was 99 degrees out, but the staff brought out umbrellas and cold water for everyone in line while taking our orders.
I actually went with ebifurai instead of tonkatsu. This was gigantic and the shrimp were legitimately heavy. It’s 2 pieces of shrimp but each piece has 3 kurumaebi fried as one. With an omelet over rice and a side tartar sauce into which you mash a boiled egg. Delicious and super satisfying. Also added in some excellent fried squid for $4. All locals but I just saw a Timeout article and apparently this special ebifurai is limited, but it’s making the rounds in social media.
- Izakaya (forgot the name) in the Mitsukoshimae station by an exit escalator…I noticed this place in April when there were a lot of loud salarymen drinking outside by the storefront with tons of Jikon, Aramasa, and Juyondai bottles. Ventured in this time and was greeted by a jolly man who looked like a Japanese version of Vincent Laval.
An izakaya menu right up my alley in style. Used a translator but they really tried earnestly communicate as my Japanese is limited and broken. The food is solid but really about having a meal geared to some great sakes.
- Basashi - raw horse heart (in sesame oil) and loin.
- Chutoro maguro sashimi
- Aji namerou (mashed horse mackerel with ginger, miso, sesame, and shiso)
- Anko karaage (fried monkfish)
- Kakifurai (fried oyster)
- Narazuke (baby watermelon pickle from Nara)
- Iburigakko (smoked daikon pickle from Akita)
- Katsuo onigiri (rice ball with soy marinated katsuobushi)
- Tonjiru (pork and miso soup)
Jikon tokubetsu
Aramasa X-Type, R-Type, and private lab Hinotori
Maruo Yorokobi Gaijin
All for about $100 out the door.
Coredo Muromachi (Terrace): inari at Kaiboku. They only sell one thing: dashiinari for takeout. Only option is 4 or 8. The inari is a little lighter and has a sweet dashi umami flavor. The rice is a little bit moister, but it’s wrapped around well. Nice snack!
In Toranomon
- Toranomon Hills Yokocho. Some decent options in a nice office building. Buzzing at night. Even the Cantonese food was pretty good - a branch of Akasaka Rikyu.
In Ueno:
- Old school yoshoku at Ponta Honke.
This place is a classic yoshoku legend. Not my favorite part of town but it has history. They supposedly were one of the first to fry tonkatsu (previously it was baked)…? Anyway, their Demi-glacé is famous and apparently takes 3 weeks to cook.
The ox tongue stew was fantastic. I loved this place. Their prices are on the higher side for yoshoku, but it is a comfortable and quiet place with a lot of history, so I get it. And, the other yoshoku place I tried to go - Grill Grand - was closed for the fireworks festival.
In Nakameguro
- Neapolitan pizza at Da Isa. As @J_L recommended above. This was really good! Margherita for $12.50. Note they also have a DOP bufala mozzarella version for a little more, but I realized too late. Come at opening.
In Omotesando
- tea and wagashi or a small course menu at Sasha Kanetanaka
Bright, pleasant, and relaxing place to spend a lighter lunch or just some tea and wagashi. Nice space. Most customers were groups of women having wagashi and tea. It’s located right in the main drag of Omotesando, but upstairs and in the back so it doesn’t feel crowded. A few steps from GYRE and just across Omotesando Hills.
Make a reservation as it fills up. I was here on a business lunch so I didn’t take many pictures. But the ume-shiso somen was very refreshing.
On another note, I’ve come to realize that somen can be amazing. At the high end, I think it’s my favorite Japanese noodle.
Some coffee
In Shimokitazawa
In Shintomicho, Bongen. Went here after Sushi Hashimoto. Shintomicho has some good semi casual French wine bars / restaurants such as Simba and some hidden gems
In Nihombashi at COREDO Muromachi, Yanaka Coffee.
Gifts
Multiple locations
- Chocolate Gateau Cake from Ken’s Cafe. I get gifts for meetings at the one by Gaienmae station, Aoyama. Simple but delicious unfortunately the shelf life is so short it’s hard to bring back.
- Brandy cake or a box of caramels from Gendy. Only in Aoyama and Ginza. They sell 30 cakes a day. Rich and dense, good to share. Pair with Darjeeling tea. They also recommended champagne.
I could recommend what I’d do in 8 hours, but it doesn’t include all of those and you may have different food priorities.
!