Changes in the LA Times Food Section

@robert.

As an over privileged white guy, I’d have vociferously defended your position, 20 years ago. Now, not so much. In that time I met and eventually married a fabulous beautiful Chicana who spent most of her childhood growing up in historic South Central Los Angeles. Over the years, I’ve come to have a very different perspective of many things.

The LA Times paid Patricia Escarcega 1/3rd less than her colleague because they could, pure and simple. Experience is the reasoning which seems logical, but it’s not. I was surprised to find out, through his LinkedIn page, that BIll only worked at the Chronicle for a year back in 2006 (& that we went to the same college) To me, it stands out as a resume padder, which has the bonus of giving outsized credibility, which can used as a stepping stone to higher paying gigs. Which is what he did after a year. An opportunity enabled by race and gender. As far as the James Beard award goes, it’s not the most egalitarian organization. They tend to draw from the same wells and work within the same circles of chefs and critics year after year. They rarely go outside their comfort zone. Restaurant Awards Like the World’s 50 Best List Are Unfair. Let’s Fix Them - Eater

Writing, to me, is a talent, not a skill you hone. Experience is more of a track record in this case rather than a judgment of talent. See “experienced” businessman in the White House. It’s also frequently used as a way to keep the glass ceiling in place. I work in a similar field. I know many folks with long tenures who can do reasonably good work and occasionally something really neat. I know others, who are just out of college or this is their first step up to the big time, who hit it out of the park every single time. They get something about what we’re doing and are able to run with it. Writing is like that.

Bill’s focus tends to be high end dining. As you well know, that does not make a well rounded critic for LA because it’s missing out on the wide swath of multitudes of other types of restaurants in LA. Also, in assessing Patricia’s experience, you’re missing one essential thing. She’s a native Southern Californian, and that counts for a hell of a lot. I know I married one. I’ve been here 18 years and I’m still learning.

That said, I read and appreciate Patricia more than Bill since she writes what I’m interested in. At the end of the day that is what important. How well will the writer connect with and engage with the audience. She does that very well.

The unfortunate part of this whole situation is since the LA Times has refused to reconcile the two salaries, it might likely end up in court, where the jury most likely consist of older white guys who believe “experience” trumps all other factors. In that scenario, she’ll loose and the glass ceiling will still be firmly in place.

17 Likes

great points and well said! i look at the current crop of new food writers such as Tejal Rao and Soleil Ho and they had cooking backgrounds before diving into writing…like you said, they just have it. As does Escarcega.

6 Likes

I doubt many readers of the LA Times food section follow the internal politics, but to those who do, it couldn’t look much worse after the Meehan debacle.

No competent manager would have led Escárcega to believe that she was getting paid as much as Addison, but the food section might have been pretty chaotic at the time, four months after Jonathan Gold died. Meehan wasn’t promoted to editor until February 2019, so I guess the hiring manager was Kimi Yoshino, who might not have had much management experience. This story confirms that Escárcega was a food writer, not a critic, at the Arizona Republic.

" Patricia Escárcega, formerly the food critic "

3 Likes

All I want is LA Times to fix this shit. I’m a long time subscriber and they are my paper of record. I do not want to switch to the New York Times.
Get your shit together LA Times and pay Patricia, and let’s not drag Bill into this, it’s not his fault.
This is all just so infuriating.

3 Likes

If the Times’ statement about the agreement with the Guild is true, they’re unlikely to end up in court. Escárcega had a chance to challenge her classification and failed to do so.

So far I don’t see that the Guild has issued a statement in support of her claim, though it’s only been a few days.

They paid Addison 50% more because they had to. He was Eater’s national critic. You don’t get someone to leave a plum gig like that by offering them a salary cut and a much smaller expense account.

Not true at all. He covers most of those, but the majority of the reviews he’s written are of inexpensive places. Overall he’s reviewed the same kind of broad range as Jonathan Gold. He cast a similar wide net when he was Eater’s national critic.

Escárcega is a food writer at the Arizona Republic and was the restaurant reviewer at the Phoenix New Times, an alt weekly, for three years

If you have no talent, you’ll never become a great writer, but it takes time to master your craft. And there’s a lot more to journalism and criticism than just writing.

I’ve been making a good living as a writer for 30 years. Experience leading to greater expertise and competence means I can command higher pay and better benefits than someone who’s been doing it for just a few years.

SF was arguably the top food city in the country at that time and the Chronicle funded the food section lavishly, so it was a step up from his starting gig in Atlanta. I read everything he wrote, he did a great job, much better than his boss, Michael Bauer. Who wasn’t going anywhere, so Addison’s ambition meant he had to leave to get a higher-level position.

https://www.sfgate.com/bayarea/article/In-search-of-the-transcendent-taqueria-Our-2488955.php

The Guild’s contract flatly contradicts the notion that experienced employees should not be paid more:

Some quick highlights on what we’ve won: … Extensive wage scales for minimum pay, locking in step raises that extend to 21 years of industry experience.

https://static1.squarespace.com/static/59f32b4b12abd94fac1a508b/t/5da7c1c24e131701f4efb48b/1571275203091/Contract+Summary+(1).pdf

But that’s sort of the point that people here are arguing, right? That the LAT is a sh*tshow and that the managers are not competent? Your position appears to be predicated on giving the LAT the benefit of the doubt. Perhaps the institution is not deserving of that, at the current time…

1 Like

Actually, now that I know that the Guild contract locks in step raises based on up to 21 years of industry experience, I wonder if Escárcega consulted the Guild or a lawyer before filing her discrimination complaint.

Tajal Rao paid her dues. Before she was hired by the NY Times in 2018, she freelanced, writing for Gourmet and many other magazines, was a restaurant critic for the Village Voice for seven years, and won two James Beard awards.

Soleil Ho had far less experience as a writer and none as a restaurant critic. Hiring her was the cherry on top of Michael Bauer’s 30-year sundae of incompetence. Or maybe he figured she’d make him look good by contrast.

Doubt it…

I really enjoy Tejal Rao’s writing definitely my favorite reviewer of all the ones mentioned including BA - her voice really comes through on her writing.

I agree this is really uncalled for as to Mr. Addison and just wrong. The fact that experience does not guarantee competence in all cases does not mean it is not tremendously important in most cases.

1 Like

I had forgotten about the collective-bargaining contract. Even without it, a major gap in years of experience is one of the most basic justifications for disparate salaries that an employer can put forth in a pay discrimination case. (The law is not on the side of posts here suggesting experience does not matter.) But if there is a collective bargaining contract in place that sets salaries by formula, then it’s essentially game over. (Of course, one can’t opine meaningfully on this question without seeing the contract.)

All of that is separate from whether the disparate rate of pay is the right thing to do, is consistent with what she was promised (which would be a contract matter if anything), etc.

5 Likes

That’s what I was thinking. Addison has 18 years of experience, she has seven.

We know the general outlines of the contract from the summary I linked to. If she really wasn’t informed about which step she started on and the process for challenging it, I think the Guild is to blame.

Disappointing not only that a cooking columnist would write something so ignorant but that no editor would catch it.

"Weight is a direct measure of an ingredient itself. By contrast, the volume taken up in a measuring spoon or cup includes variable amounts of empty space.”—Harold McGee, Keys to Good Cooking

That’s why European recipes and professional bakers’ recipes always use weights, and why various publications’ futile attempts to define a standard weight for a cup of flour are so inconsistent.

“In the test kitchen, we favor the dip-and-sweep method—we dip a measuring cup into a container of flour and then level the flour with a straight edge—but some bakers prefer to spoon flour directly into the cup. Since these techniques—along with the heavy- or light-handedness of the baker—incorporate different amounts of air, we’ve found that there can be up to a 20 percent difference in the weight of a cup of flour …”

1 Like

What do you expect? FTC-level standards and expertise?

4 Likes

And then some. It’s as good a gig as there is for that kind of writer.

I’m not sure what you’re saying is wrong about the article. He explains the source and the magnitude of the variance starting in the third paragraph, and says pretty much what you’re saying (though he doesn’t go into great detail). And this is a follow-up to an article where the same issues were discussed at length to explain LATs new recipe format, where they now mostly lead with grams. They are going with dip-and-sweep conversions, so they agree with you and cook’s illustrated there too.

This story seems to be dealing with reader reaction to the the new format, and why the cup/gram ratios don’t match more commonly-seen conversions. Maybe Ben could have been more forceful here, and explained (again) why they think this standard is the best. But maybe he didn’t want the tone of the article to be “we are righter than the industry standard” so he went with more of a cultural relativism piece.

This is probably reading too much into this, but I can understand some conservatism among the LAT food writers right now. It’s been a traumatic year with a lot of collateral damage. Until permanent editors are put in place, there’s no one to back major decisions if something blows up. Until then, it’s just a writer’s word vs. an internet full of critics.

3 Likes