Copenhagen and Amsterdam Short Trip Report April 2019 (Noma, Kadeau, Palaegade, 212)

Kadeau

I know I made some bold statements about Kadeau and left everybody hanging :slight_smile: so here’s the follow up. This is one of the best fine dining meals I’ve ever had, definitely in the top 10.

Kadeau is the second branch of a Danish restaurant that first opened up on the island of Bornholm. I’ve never been, but my impression is that it is like the Ibiza of Denmark, sans the partying. New Nordic restaurants are known for their focus on local ingredients, but Kadeau boasts ingredients that are not only local to Denmark, but specifically to Bornholm. I can’t recall how I first read up about the restaurant (aside from the obvious Red Book reference), but reviews had been mixed. Some had mentioned that it was a singularly spectacular meal, surpassing their experiences at other Danish restaurants, while other reviewers thought the flavors were way out there (too acidic was the general consensus of these reviewers). Given the Jekyll and Hyde nature of the reviews, I was excited about the meal, but I did approach it with apprehension.

From the first bite though, we were blown away. Every single bite you see below was delicious and was a highlight, so I won’t belabor that point below.

Place settings.

The Menu for the night

Some bubbles and local cider to start the evening

Kefir, oxidized pear and fig leaf - this was a nice little amuse bouche with what I recall to be fig oil; the fragrance of the fig leaf went really well with fig oil

Straight into kohlrabi, blackcurrant and Nobilis fir - this tasted as great as it looked; yes there was tartness from the currants, but it was an acidity that provided a nice balance to some slight sweetness, along with the crunchy texture of the kohlrabi underneath

Target of green asparagus, kale and egg yolk - Some slight herbalness from the kale accented a deceivingly rich tart

Mahogany clam, white currant and cherry blossoms - the slight acidity of gooseberry juice and floralness of the latter ingredients served to highlight the cleaner flavors and chewy texture of the mahogany clam

Brill and cider apples Slightly sweet and spicy

Oyster, green strawberry, and blackcurrant leaf Another example where acidity was put to good use to help complement the brininess in the shell fish (I can’t recall the type of oyster)

Gratuitous shot of our wine

Salmon, tomato, and fig leaves - They scoop the cold and hot-smoked salmon out and mix it with the tomatoes and fig leaves (and oil); the smoky salmon went well with the refreshing flavors of the other ingredients. Funny thing is they left the salmon sitting there for display for a few minutes. My SO asked - “Wait, do we get to eat that entire thing??” Alas, no - with uncanny timing, they came back and picked up the piece at that very moment.

Squid, lardo, and mushrooms with dipping sauce It was squid - it looks a bit like a piece of yakitori - perhaps a piece of chicken skin, and equally as decadent


Yeated barley, Havgus cheese, and beef fat +crab - you scoop it up and eat it like a taco or a pita :drooling_face:

Browned cabbage and caviar

Nexo Nigiri, ryebread and pickles - this is a Danish (Bornholmish[?]) version of a piece of nigiri sushi; raw mackerel with some pickled fruits on rye - this was delicious and something different, but I think it’s hard to top sushi rice :wink:

Scallop, horseradish, and hemp + sundried tomatoes - the sweet+saline flavor and chewy texture of the scallop served as a nice base for the richness of the tomatoes and floralness of the other ingredients


Horse mussel, beetroot, and spruce shoots - The smoke mussel anchored a dish where texture was the name of the game - the chewy berries and beetroot created this ingredible mouthfeel upon consumption

Pork, fermented pumpkin, and leeks - This dish was not as unique as the rest but was very well executed; the pork was really moist and had a slight (but not overbearing) “porkiness”

Dessert time! Creme fraiche, berries, and walnut schnapps The berries were just the right amount of chewy, sweet, and tart, and really went well with the fragrant creme fraiche; the walnut schnapps was subtle was imparted a bit of nuttiness


Beetroot, quince, and mulberries - These didn’t taste quite like the mulberries we get here; they were, you guessed it, slightly tart, but they went well with the chewy and sweet quince and beetroot

Bunch of petit fours at the end


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