We had an 11AM checkout at our Airbnb but a 5PM flight, so between that, deposting our bags at a nearby hotel for luggage storage, and taking the 747 shuttle to YUL, we set out for Snowdon early in the morning, before the intense heat and humidity I’d expected all trip finally arrived.
This was the furthest destination on our entire trip, made extra sleepy by our early morning trek. We were surprised that this was right on an elevated street, and beneath it was a highway (I think!). Reminded me of many a diner in NYC or even here in LA.
But Snowdon Deli a conventional greasy spoon is not – since we skipped Schwartz’s (NB: the bookseller at De Stiil Books enlightened us that Celine Dion owns it now?), we needed to meet our smoked meat quota; @shirakoslurper’s rec was instrumental here. For the uninitiated, this seems to be the lesser known traditional smoked meat spot in MTL.
Loved it. Empty dining room, but for a couple of early birds like ourselves, but significantly older. Look at that placemat!
I don’t know who made that bagel, but I really liked it. Maybe it was the nice baker rolling in the trays of other breads we met on our way out. Either way, I loved that I got to have smoked meat on the last morning of this MTL trip. Fantastic environs and an absolutely great time.
The rest of the day was ambling to bookstore to bookstore; a spontaneous trip back to Jean-Talon to procure some last minute gifts; and enduring a hellish ride to the airport on a bus whose fan and AC was busted. Ouch!
Can’t wait to return, MTL! Here are some incidental pics to end these reports.
saying to stay away from Joe Beef or Au Pied du Cochon is nonsense
if you have the time, last year when i went to montreal, i drove up to quebec city to eat at Taniere3 and it was the highlight of the trip without a doubt
also the cocktail bar scene in Montreal is good but my favorite cocktail bar was also in quebec city, JJacques
habitat 67 is a must see for fans of architecture!
fun fact: the st. lawrence river rips behind it, and there is a small montreal surfing community that have turned the waves of the st. lawrence into a surfing site, totally recommend checking out some riversurfing
my favorite cocktail bars in montreal are atwater cocktail club and the coldroom! atwater is a bit more glam while the coldroom is more divey/speakeasy
we know I don’t live there since i said I was on a trip but yes eaten at both last year and in 2016, enjoyed both just as much. the duck with cherry reduction at Joe beef will always be a top bite for me and the atmosphere at au pied du cochon is superb as well! they have done a lot for the city of Montreal and are a staple, don’t just kick them to the curb just yet is what im saying, it’s all good!
also im a sucker for that Quebec Anthony Bourdain episode, it’s a great one
Really great report @avantbored! Love all the digressions into architecture and everything else. Also glad to hear Mon Lapin delivered. It’s always weird to so heavily endorse a restaurant, but my god it’s good.
Also, love that you made it to De Stiil. Impeccably curated.
Yeah Lapin absolutely delivered!! Very glad for all the championing of it here. Would love to try it a little bit later in the evening.
De Stiil was fab. I remembered L’echange and the Bouqinerie from my last visit. Couldnt make it to Word (The) because they were closed, but the used bookstore scene in MTL is so great. Closest weve got on our side is Alias East IMO
