If I may input my opinion on Tim Ho Wan’s original michelin star was credited to the now closed Mong Kok location which was the first one. At the time the chef was actually working there I believe and it was run not as a corporate chain but as a singular restaurant. So to say they received a star just to be inclusive may not have some merit but I do believe it was a top notch dining destination back in the day because there were lines even before michelin bestowed the star to it. That said the current starred location goes to the Sham Shui Po location which looks alot classier than the other more fast casual locations.
There is a possibility that some of the Hong Kong locations have nothing to do with the international or even more modern locations within Hong Kong in terms of daily operations or there may be differences in staff skill levels and experience that could possibly make differences . To get back to the point, I don’t think it was a pity star back in the day but today they might allow them to keep it since its a good story and is good for their brand.
Are there any Chinese restaurants in America that we truly think deserve stars? I have been to China and eaten at places like Eight in macau, Yu’s Kitchen in Chengdu, Made in China in beijing, LKH in Hong Kong. And I think the answer is a definite no. (Though I may be wrong–I also hated Tang Court in HK which got three stars). Right now there are nominally two–Cafe China in New York and Mister Jiu’s in San Francisco, though the latter is more New American. I have eaten at both and found neither to be very good at all. Cafe China is decently authentic but it’s really run of the mill stuff. I found some of flavors that Mister Jiu’s tried to pass of as Chinese to be absolutely repulsive. Not being authentic is fine but the flavors just didn’t work. Tuome in NYC is sometimes classified as Chinese also, but I have no idea how anyone came to that conclusion other than the fact that the chef is Chinese.
I have some favorites across the Bay Area: Koi Palace is reliably good, Ping’s Bistro and Yum’s Bistro in Fremont. I also really like Bistro Na’s in LA, which I actually think might get a star. But I don’t think any of these restaurants are even remotely close to reaching the level of ingredient quality, precision, etc. for a star. The ones I think are closer to star level are Hakkasan and Eight Tables, which I actually personally like less but acknowledge they have higher ingredient quality, precision, refinement, etc. It’s not like it is not possible–Corey lee, who isn’t Chinese, puts out some absolutely incredible Chinese dishes at benu. But I just don’t such a Chinese restaurant exists in America.
Qi-House of Sichuan in Hong Kong had a star in 2016 (may still do). Yes, it’s a more attractive and formal restaurant than Sichuan Impression and certainly Chengdu Taste but the food at those SGV stalwarts is far superior.
In the 2019 SF guide, the only Chinese restaurant with one star is Mr. Jiu’s. Chinese restaurants with Bibs include Great China, Royal Feast, and Yank Sing.
On a side note, Yum’s Bistro is not the same anymore. The original chef owner sold the business and retired thus his food and the preorder dishes he was known for, no longer exists, and the current owners of Yum’s Bistro don’t put their heart into the food anymore…the owner is nice, but the food has gone downhill (and high priced), so you can walk in very easily, and as the regulars no longer go there since the original chef retired.
I had dinner very recently with someone in the F&B press who actually took the Benu team to Yum’s Bistro about 4 ish years ago (they were at the table directly behind me at the time as well) and I told him about seeing them there. The interesting thing is that within a year or so later after that Yum’s dinner, Corey did a squab dish at Benu that had a very similar flavor profile to the one at Yum’s, although done completely in a different way and much higher level. So what you say is true about his ability to iterate on Cantonese/Chinese related inspirations and incorporate them into the tasting menu is amazing. I remember a crab based dish that had such a wonderful Canto/Chinese profile that it screamed for a pairing with aged shaoxing wine…but Yoon Ha couldn’t source that and instead located a Madeira to achieve a remotely similar effect (and it worked).
That’s unfortunate. I used to live nearby, though I have since moved across the Bay. They don’t do the preorder dishes anymore?
Corey’s dishes have a lot of Chinese influence, frankly I think it’s more Chinese than Mister Jiu’s based on flavor alone (Mister Jiu’s dishes sound Chinese, but don’t deliver on real flavor. Hakkasan is miles more authentic). His dried abalone (not on the menu anymore, and costs more than the entire rest of the menu)–full of umami and funky flavors–is a Cantonese classic done right and might be my favorite dish of all time, better than any abalone I have had in Hong Kong. Right now I think he’s doing a chrysanthemum tofu soup which is a Cantonese classic though I thought it was a little too subtle in flavor. Obviously the faux shark fin soup, lobster coral XLB, salt cod fried rice and chili oil caviar (though this didn’t taste like a Chinese chili oil), thousand year old egg, inverted pork belly, and many other dishes are Chinese or Chinese inspired inspired dishes. While I wouldn’t say these dishes are authentic Chinese by any means, and a lot them also veer Korean and/or Japanese in flavor, they are authentic in the flavor and essence they capture. I’m Chinese and Chinese food is my probably my favorite cuisine to eat on a frequent basis, and I often complain restaurants are not “authentic” enough. Benu is not authentic and is my favorite restaurant I’ve ever been to.
The results will be announced tomorrow at 5:30 pm! A live stream is available. Good luck to all the chefs and their teams. I already see several Bay Area chefs are in LA in preparation for the revelation (won’t spoil anything though!). Do California proud!
I will be casting the livestream to my living room TV donning my best suit with champagne flute in hand. It must be so exciting for chefs across the state to be rubbing shoulders tomorrow with the likes of TK~.
For me, this is much more exciting than the Oscars because it is something that I have seen unfold over the past decade in the state. I feel like specifically LA is due for its recognition and am excited that others will have the chance to showcase their talent in the years ahead with a common goal, or not~
[Brouhaha] You don’t need a moderator. Any troll can make another troll. I’ll prove it. Kneel, catholiver.
[catholiver scoffs]
[Brouhaha] Do you want to be a troll or not? Kneel.
[catholiver kneels before Brouhaha]
In the name of the Warrior, I charge you to be brave.
In the name of the Father, I charge you to be just.
In the name of the Mother, I charge you to defend the innocent.
Arise, catholiver of Reno, Ken M of FTC.
[ALL CLAPPING] catholiver of Reno, Ken M of FTC!!!
Now back to our regularly scheduled programming.
NNaka staff went to go eat at Somni this past week it seems. Do you think it’s like school where the cool kids just hang out with other cool kids? I imagine something similar happening after the awards. Teehee~