I’m not surprised that the tamago is good at Shoji because the chef spent years at a kaiseki restaurant in Kyoto so his forte extends beyond raw fish. The fish soup that I had at Shoji when dining there in early March was the best soup I have ever had. I don’t believe we were served tamago with that meal. It was my last pre-pandemic restaurant meal. Sigh. At least I went out with a bang.
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He just started doing the tamago after they switched take-out/delivery during pandemic. Hopefully he will keep doing it when NYC is able to reopen restaurants!
PSA
https://www.instagram.com/p/DarETp6DXx_/?utm_source=ig_web_button_share_sheet
Shion is back at 68 Charlton with a limited pop-up, and at $380 all-inclusive (including gratuity), it’s one of the more compelling sushi experiences in NYC right now.
From the moment you sit down, it’s clear this isn’t just a repeat of his previous restaurant. The otsumami has changed , the menu feels completely refreshed, and one of my favorite changes is that Shion now prepares the shari right in front of the guests. Cooking the rice in a kamameshi pot gives it incredible texture, and because it’s served immediately instead of sitting, it has a beautiful floral aroma that really stands out. He also uses two different salts, adding another layer of balance that pairs seamlessly with the fish.
Most of the guests seemed to be longtime regulars and fans who followed him here, and it’s easy to understand why. Shion knows he’s operating as a pop-up, so he’s working with smaller fish than before. Combined with the current season, when many fish have less fat, he adjusts his technique brilliantly. Instead of relying on richness, he slices the fish incredibly thin and builds multiple layers, creating an amazing texture and depth of flavor. It’s a perfect example of technique elevating every bite.
NYC sushi prices continue to climb, and while it’s true that you often get what you pay for, this meal reminded me that exceptional craftsmanship can sometimes outweigh luxury ingredients. At $380 all-inclusive, this pop-up delivers remarkable value for the level of skill and attention to detail you’re getting.
If you’ve been waiting for Shion’s return, now is the time.
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Looks extremely yummy
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I had to double take because at first I thought 68 Charlton was 69 Leonard 
I hope he ends up getting a good space.
I’m guessing Douglas Kim means the rice is cooked in a hagama (describing it as kamameshi might be a slightly odd reference for sushi). And the cuts don’t actually look all that thin, though using a layering technique may be appropriate or interesting experiments depending on particular neta (good for some - I’ve seen aji, iwashi, ika, toro “millefeuille,” akamizuke folded, etc. - but maybe not as optimal for others).
In any event, Shion is definitely skilled and I’m sure he has a lot of intentional technique. While the Saito-style is not my personal favorite, I had a good meal with Shion at Amane a while back. His technique was endorsed by Saito-san explicitly in the SCMP article a few years ago in which Saito denounced unnamed others (not Shion) riding his coattails.
The bulk of the statement is given over to a list of eight restaurants around the world that can claim to be part of the exclusive group.
Moreover, the list includes names of the chefs in charge at each who have “completed the technical skill training and possess the virtues recognised by Mr Takashi Saito”…
In addition, Shion Uino, who worked in Sushi Saito in Tokyo for eight years before moving to New York to open his own sushi-ya, is listed as an independent operator who “does not directly belong to the Sushi Saito group but is approved by Mr Takashi Saito as a qualified sushi professional”.
To be clear, because the headline sounds negative, Saito-san recognized Shion as being approved.
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Was this only July 2-18?