The 101 restaurants and people that define how L.A. eats

I didn’t really get Sonoratown. I’ve had better flour tortillas (though not at anyplace still in business).

No LANGER’S?

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Oh how nice! Hawkins is listed - I went two weeks ago. The line was deceptively long - the ordering was lickety split, but the wait for the food was just over one hour, and judging from those around me I made a rookie mistake by ordering walk-up. Pre-order is the way to go.

It was still the same great Hawkins burger and I really like their onion rings. The teen with me liked their chili fries as well.

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it occurs to me that the choices reflect the ethnic influences of LA’s population, though perhaps somewhat disproportionally; by my count almost a third of the choices are ethnic asian in some way (and that list doesn’t include places like DTF). adding everything south of the border (mexico/south america) brings it up to close to half. and these choices are relatively unique to LA. as such, it’s not a bad list.

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When critics hash out lists like that, typically they look for diversity of cuisines, price, location, etc. Maybe Majordomo and Providence were on the list to start but got cut when they chose to whittle the $$$$ category down to seven.

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Or I don’t know, maybe people can pay for the work that’s put into it? Giving everything away for free kind of sucks.

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I’m all for paying to support our media sources–unfortunately I can’t subscribe to them all and the Apple News+ doesn’t give me access to that specific article. I was bummed that I can’t see the detail of how they selected the list because of the paywall, not because the paywall itself exists.

Your taste buds need no calibration, I found it quite ordinary as well.

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Fair enough, I can’t pay for everything either. I just get irritated (not at you) when people gripe about paywalls. It’s one thing to say it’s behind a paywall and not being able to see it, but it’s a completely different matter to complain about having to pay for content.

I have way too many artist and writer friends who are constantly being grinded for no pay “exposure” work or being badgered to lower their already low rates

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I like that it’s ethnically mixed playing to LA’s dominances as an ethnic food capital. Even as a diverse global food city, it’s still a unique aspect of how much french/italian doesn’t dominate the conversation compared to other cities. But something like Konbi and Home State, and including two fried chicken sandwich restaurant (WTF is up with LA and fried chicken sandwiches), could have been dropped for something like Angler or Majordomo or Nightshade or Providence. At least 1/4 of the list could been given to this category of restaurants. Jonathan Gold was more conscious with spreading the list across price points, not eschewing the global importance of fine-ish dining.

But then, maybe it originally had Somni, Dialogue, Auburn and our fine dining scene is in a slimmer desperate situation so that LA doesn’t have enough to make the list. This is a category that I can’t see coming back once covid is over. Maybe it’s local bias, but I think LA has been hit a lot harder than NYC, Chicago, SF, specifically in this category. That just makes it more important to champion this category of restaurants this year.

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That disappointed me as well–I always hope it will be listed as #19.

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no sqirl?

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David Chang is probably wondering where King Taco is.

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Spoon by H is on the list.

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I am sure Evan Funke, who has now been snubbed by the Goldster AND BP-laddárcega, is enjoying this list.

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FYI Nightshade hasnt been opened for months and might not even reopen at this point?

also @PorkyBelly if you aren’t joking then do we need to remind you to scrape the top two inches of mold off?

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I mean… If you called kogi fermented jam, you could probably sell it for extra.

Just saying

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Yeah, Nightshade has been closed and while from her Instagram posts Mei Lin seems to be keeping busy she’s not associated with any one thing.

Print edition that subscribers will get Sunday is available separately for $12.

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