Just got back from a week in Japan. It was hot and humid, but I like visiting after Obon because it’s a little bit less touristy and some of my favorite ingredients are on display: shin-ika (baby sumi-ika), kuro awabi (black abalone), aka-uni (red sea urchin, from Yura, Ainoshima, and Shimonoseki), good mirugai (geoduck), and there’s still some shinko (baby kohada).
Mainly Tokyo, but I made a journey to Niigata for a day.
Tempura: Tempura NIitome
Sushi (omakase):
- Kiyota Hanare
- Sawada
- Kurosaki
- Sushi Namba Hibiya
- Tokiwazushi Shibata Honten (Niigata)
- Gaienmae Takemoto
- Sushi Nishioka
Sushi (historic institutions): - Kizushi
- Sasamaki Kenuki
Unagi: Nihonryori Yamazaki
Curry: Ittaikan
Ramen: Rokurinsha
Tacos: Los Tacos Azules
Tempura Niitome (3rd visit)
No pictures allowed inside, so going off of memory, but about 6 otsumami, 15 tempura, tendon with rice and pickles, and then dessert.
Truly next level. While I tend to prefer late February for tempura to experience the beginning of sansai and the tail end of fugu season, this meal had some nice late summer delicacies like shin-ika, mushiawabi, and elusive aka-uni. The medium-rare botanebi, shinika, and thinly sliced mushiawabi were amazing with Niitome-san’s super light, translucent batter. A gigantic oyster from Iwate was cooked longer but the juiciness was out of this world. Niitome-san cut it into 3 pieces each with distinct textures, some creamy just set and some with a little chew. Also, the Aomori corn, okra, and cha-mame were extremely nicely done. Cha-mame all holding together without being clumpy, the batter remaining thin and you could smell the fragrance through it.
The long-done tempura piece this time was satoimo (taro), good, but not at the heights of the satsumaimo (sweet potato), kabu (turnip), or shiitake (mushroom) in visits prior. The huge pile of crazy aka-uni from Yura on nori was nice though less of a skill piece, whereas ones like cha-mame were more impressive. Still, the botanebi, shinika, and mushiawabi were next level that affirmed for me why Niitome’s food is peak.
Kiyota Hanare (Ginza). 1st visit.
Chef Kimura-san is the 3rd generation chef of Kiyota, one of the most storied sushiyas in Tokyo. Long story short, he opened his own branch as Kiyota Hanare a few years ago. There’s lots that can be said about Kiyota / Kiyota Hanare, from its history to its special relationship with suppliers with the best ingredients, but Kimura-san is a living legend and the “uncrowned emperor or sushi” according to some. Well, he’s legitimately great, and this is one of the top sushi experiences I’ve had. Go for dinner (another chef is doing lunch). I was super impressed by the elegant balance of Kimura-san’s nigiri. Shari is medium sticky, unravels nicely, with a great umami finish and taste that feels complete. Formation is medium compact but never tight. This is sushi that is sophisticated and controlled with elegant power in balance. Of course the ingredients are the best for everything and they all play a part, but Kimura-san makes the whole better than the sum of its parts.
In retrospect, I was also really impressed with the flow of how Kimura-san served textural comparisons back to back in ways you wouldn’t normally think: new season/hashiri tai sliced thin with its lively chew followed by super tender steamed abalone sliced in the same proportion. Tennen shimaaji, ultra fresh, cut thickly with a snappy crunch, comparable to the kobashira in the hosomaki that preceded it. Normally one thinks of shimaaji as a bit creamy or fatty, but here it had a real interesting fresh texture. Mirugai was trimmed super nicely and it had a plush crunch similar to the kurumaebi just before it.
The maguro, of course, with the characteristic “san,” in perfect balance with the top Gotemba wasabi and complete shari. About 8 cuts of maguro (Ishiji supplied) from Oma, and of course harakami.
akami
shinika - geso as nigiri
murasaki uni from Yoichi - incredible
mirugai - the best
shinika - slick
toro - one of many types of cuts
shinko - elegant
kurumaebi
iwashi shinjo - ultra pure, clean, no off smell at all
grilled mirugai - very special part
Sawada (Ginza). 5th visit.
No pics allowed. This was probably my favorite time at Sawada. The rice was more dialed in, and even if it’s not my style (it’s very firm), it was noticeably better this time around in salt balance, texture, and temp. About 28 servings of nigiri.
I’ve come to appreciate Sawada more after visiting more old school Edomae shops in context. You get the sense of his style really being influenced by Edomae institutions, from Tsuruhachi (he’s talked about Igarashi-san) and the Miyakozushi lineage to even the kurumaebi and anago being reminiscent of Kizushi’s, imo. The neta progression is quite textbook. It’s powerful stuff, with strong marination, salty rice, with packing a touch tighter etc. I respect his approach and the fact that it’s just him and his wife with no other help.
He always talks about how many foreigners think of his place as specializing in maguro, and he even jokingly has a famous “Sawada special” roll that is overdone with overwhelming amounts of maguro. When really, much of his other neta were more notable. This time, matsukawa karei, yaki sawara, shin-ikura, and shimaaji shined and I had to encore those along with kanpyo maki.
Many hotel concierges have recently tried to court him to open up the books but he wants to keep it as is now, with just on Omakase. It’s very much for sushi purists - no phone use allowed (but one can take handwritten notes, as some did) and reservations are basically only for 1 person (I rarely see openings for 2, but sometimes multiple openings for 1 at the same time).
hanabi motif for this season’s napkin






































































































