A few random comments:
To me, original ethnic versions as baseline comparisons are inevitable. Although the comparisons can be valid assuming one has had the original before and knows exactly what went into it. No point comparing inferior MSG jacked up product in a Chinatown or random place that is cheaper.
However if the approach and execution of the dish being questioned results in a variation or a finished product that is otherwise drastically or at least notably different, worthy of exploring, is delicious, then one should at the very least take into consideration cost, skill, technique, sourcing, and all sorts of other factors involved (not to mention rent, and also seeing what kind of clientele the establishment attracts as mainstays). Basically, keep an open mind. However people are people, and certain communities in the old world (as well as locals) are either narrow minded that way, do not care about that part and only think one way as a customer, yet they are completely oblivious to wage/living conditions, standard of living (amongst many other factors), and the way things are done around here. For example it is completely pointless to compare Taiwanese street food in Taipei (let alone OG Tainan) to that oyster noodle/pancake or pork intestine noodle you can find in the SGV that’s not even going to be close, larger portioned, lesser quality, and more expensive. Why lament this when other parts of California would also be happy to have something edible even if it is not close, since Northern California Taiwanese food scene is way sadder (e.g. we don’t even have a legit Taiwanese breakfast joint up here in the vein of Huge Tree, Four Seas, Yi Mei etc). It’s all perspective. Although if something that could have improved in the overseas version but the restaurant fails to execute in that manner, then any criticism of what could have made that dish better within reason, are all valid.
It is completely another discussion if someone is “hipsterfying” something, it ends up getting a Michelin star, and you know there are people doing something similar but totally next level and far better, so you have the right context to call out what is good or what is not good. I cannot comment on Porridge and Puffs, but I think I get where all these contrasting viewpoints are coming from. I don’t like the term “racist” being thrown around because we already live in a very polarized America where sensitivity and short fuses are the norm. Understandable if Chef Phan is being pigeon holed by her own kind and feels intense frustration by their lack of support and willing to embrace let alone understand, although she could add more fuel to the fire in a good way if there is proof those same people would gladly line up for say… $20 ramen (hypocrisy at its finest… we see this all the time in Hong Kong when some locals complain when the price of tiny bowl of legit Hong Kong wonton noodles which is a snack portion, is expensive, but they will gladly and quckly shell out $30 for a plate of high end pasta or $20 for tonkotsu ramen so thicc that glues your throat shut).
As far as the $20 ramen comment made earlier, that is a factor of the popularity of the noodle bowl itself that blew up in its own face outside of Japan; people hopping on bandwagon trends even without understanding the culture behind ramen and/or forcing themselves to like it (and even behaving as if they don’t want to be left behind), and others cashing in on the trend. You may have fierce competition in Japan and over here, but the cost of making that bowl is high enough that people are willing to pay for it (and wait an insane amount of time). Even more so if there’s an elevation of brand recognition (e.g. an official branch or franchise of a famous restaurant from Japan). The worst is having to spend extra in the event the restaurant prides itself on quality and goes the extra mile to source better quality ingredients, just to reproduce something remotely close to the original. We have already lost in terms of access and quality of ingredients here vs Japan (if using the ramen comparison), whether that pork is all naturally grown, organic grain fed free range chicken (and omega three rich eggs), and even then the quality is not even close. But this is different than the issue with Porridge and Puffs.
Real estate and the cost of doing business is skyrocketing, at least in Northern California/San Francisco. Some business owners might feel they need to do something completely different in order to stand out and survive. Kudos to those who stick to their guns and principles to try to do something different…but hopefully it is delicious. As far as places that have achieved success but the scope is limited and taste entirely subjective… I guess more power to them. For example, one Michelin star Mister Jiu’s in San Francisco…there are those who love the place to bits, and there are some like me and those in the Cantonese/Chinese community (including industry people) that absolutely do not get it nor agree with its high rating (and in fact I was very displeased with the quality and taste of the food during one visit). However I get the concept, Mister Jiu’s is not out to do “upscale comfort food” only, it is his own take and spin with his fine dining approach. By the nature of its design, it (food/restaurant/service entire package all combined) will delight and offend simultaneously. The quantity and quality of one’s reaction will vary according to sensitivity, proclivities/preferences, recognizing presence (or lack thereof) of details and many more.
The world is big enough for everything, even stuff that is not so good which is part of the variety. We have choices we can make. Nobody should tell others how they should make it, although it is sad if people make decisions either off the cuff or don’t care to inform themselves. But again, people are people. I’m just glad that in the case of Mister Jiu’s I can choose to end the evening with a bang bang, walk to my local favorite Chinatown greasy stir fry joint approved by Canto restaurant industry people (beef chow fun umami explosions with so much aromatic grease it looks shinier than a car with a new coat of Armor All) and wash down what I had at Jiu’s with a Tsing Tao with friends and hobble home with a smile on my face.
Where is that from?