First time we had Chef Colby’s food was at Scuola di Pizza at Mozza many years ago and so it was great to finally try out his “new” place Antico Nuovo https://www.anticonuovo-la.com/ in the Larchmont area in LA. As a solo diner it was really helpful to be able to order half portions of the pasta and ice creams to try out more dishes. Overall outstanding dishes which you don’t find on every menu, e.g. cheek and tongue ragu, fire roasted squab, veal sweetbread and of course the ice creams.
On our last visit, we tried an off-menu yellowtail collar appetizer. It was bad in many ways. It was too vinegary and not cooked such that the meat easily fell from the bones. Kuya Lord’s yellowtail collar is much better. Generally, I don’t like the way that Antico Nuovo prepares fish. But it was this particular dish that made me think: “I’m not coming back again.”
Cauliflower was pretty good but also too vinegary. I think the chef prefers more tang to dishes than I like.
Tomahawk steak was okay but chewy and lacking flavor to our tastes.
We aren’t fans of their pastas. Haven’t tried the ice cream that I can remember.
In fairness, I thought the focaccia and ricotta spread were excellent. The caponata was okay, but bested by a similar eggplant dish we recently ate at unacclaimed Havlabar.
I don’t think it’s a terrible restaurant. I just doubt we’ll go back given that we prefer the three Funke restaurants, Osteria Mozza, Gucci Osteria, Stella West Hollywood, Rossoblu, and Angelini Osteria (as well as Leopardo if you consider that Italian). For context, we’ve eaten at Antico Nuovo about five times.
Oddly enough, I preferred the chef’s short-lived restaurant Bari.
The wood fire was also out. The team was having issues with the vent and the fire wasn’t lit until we were midway through dinner service. Much of the secondi menu wasn’t available until they could figure things out…and Chef Colby was trying to troubleshoot the issue.
Got the focaccia service with ricotta/pistachio pesto and the butter/bottarga combos. Great.
Caesar was nice with the broccolini greens.
Pappardelle and plin pastas solid. It’s different from what we had at Felix recently, and the Felix pastas edge out Antico.
The veal chop and skirt steaks were good…the veal chop outshined the skirt steak.
I didn’t love the potato purée with bone marrow, but did enjoy the asparagus & fiddlehead ferns. Is there a distinct taste fiddleheads should have? It kinda tasted like a cross between a haricot vert and a snap pea.
For dessert, since there was 4 of us…was an ice cream buffet. This has long been a dream of mine, but we usually come just us 2 so ordering more than 2 ice creams is overkill. We ordered chocolate, strawberry, tangerine, honeycomb, and pistachio crunch. I didn’t want the coconut caramel and they talked me out of the focaccia. Each ice cream was a delight…pro tips: chocolate pairs well with strawberry or tangerine; strawberry also goes great with pistachio crunch for a high-end peanut butter & jelly. There was not a clunker in the group. Some mentioned the tangerine was a little sherbet-esque.
We had a nice bottle to pair with dinner…I can’t remember what it was outside it was a blend of cab franc, merlot, and something else from 2022.
Went for the first time recently. Lovely place but maybe my expectations were too high.
Focaccia with anchovies was great, asparagus and fiddleheads also great, ice cream was incredible. Pastas were good and interesting withbsome lesser used ingredients, but maybe a level below most of the other big names on the scene?
I was picking up ice cream and marveled at this case. I asked if it’s mostly decoration or do they use the tools. Yep, we use all of them was the response.