Weekend mornings across the Arleta DMV. Woke up bright and early to make the drive from other side of the county. Shower, Mr Brown Coffee, and Death Grips on the Bluetooth woke my ass up. Only about 35 minutes from the South Bay. I love Sunday morning drives!
If you haven’t already check out this article from Esparaza and Eater.
This man has his own lambs! Enough said. Snout to tail, bones, and blood are all used. All of it is delicious. This is the way I love to eat. Every part used. Sold by weight or in individual tacos. Handmade tortillas by the ladies.
I love the barbacoa. With some of the fat parts is so damn good.
The pancita oh my. This is one of the best tacos I ever had. This bangs hard.
The consommé had some smokiness and really woke up with a little bit of lime.
Again some of the best food is in some of the most unlikely spots. On the street. This is organic farm to table, snout to tail, just plain good ol cooking. Beautiful food from a wonderful family.
Destination Mexican spot like Holbox, La Unica, Tire Shop, etc.
Atotonilco definitely wins the crown for pancita (and moronga) in LA, and for the more spiced versions of consomme, but even though they raise their own animals, i still think the best barbacoa is at another esparza recommendation: Barbacoa Estilo Taxco (5609 mckinley ave, https://www.lamag.com/digestblog/essential-t-guerrero-style-lamb-barbacoa-in-south-park/) (i would also put their consomme up against any consomme from any restaurant in LA - french, japanese, michelin-star, you name it)
a related longer-trek esparza find that is similarly worth the effort: el lagunero for spit-roasted goat (California’s Only Mexican Spit-Roasted Goat Is Hidden Away at a Tire Store - Eater LA although it’s not the only one in california - the guys at Bee taqueria also do one…), and then stop by tulip house (44 nevada st., loma linda) afterwards for coffee and vibes…
this post has hung like a cloud over my head for the last 3 weeks!!
they have moved a couple blocks away 5680 paloma. alternative names are julio’s barbacoa or barbacoa toluca. basically the same, although the accoutrements have taken a hit, presumably due to inflation - red instead of white onion, a little less cilantro in the mix, lemon instead of lime, but the salsas are unchanged; and the overall setup is a bit less nice than at the prevoous location… i will say, in revisiting it, the thing i like most about it - that the barbacoa and consomme taste “pure”, “clean”, something those words approximate, others may find to be austere bordering on plain… (but the salsas are an integral component). but it still remains the standard in my heart!
Finally made it to Atotonilco this Sunday. Really enjoyed the pancita and morongo but we always seem to gravitate towards consomme which was superlatively good here.
I arrived a little before 7AM (after striking out by being too early to the flower market and Mercado Olympic) and they seemed like they were ready for service closer to 7:30AM with morongo cooked in place and ready at 7:45AM.
I’m also hella glad I went and very appreciative you already posted about it. I’ve been making an effort to get up early and realized it’s way easier if it’s incentivized for me. Since it’s even harder (for me) to get up on the weekend that makes it so much the better to have weekend-only early morning food to hit up.
Can I ask what you like about the tortillas? Don’t get me wrong, a fresh tortilla is always welcome but I didn’t notice anything unusual about these particular tortillas. I’m probably spoiled when it comes to tortillas, though…
foremost, they’re always fresh. secondly, i think the diameter and thickness of the tortilla perfectly complement the amount of lamb you get, and also stands up to a heavy saucing. there’s no extra tortilla at the end, nor is there bbq lamb shrapnel littering the plate. the tensile strength is high – so i only need 1/taco-- but still yielding; it’s not like i’m chewing on something obviously sturdy. add to that, the mouthfeel is pretty magical: never crumbly, always soft, melds perfectly with the fat and meat of the lamb. and the flavor is earthy, but not, like “oh it’s whole wheat” – makes me wonder if they use a mix of corn and flour.
anyway i’ve always gone early before the rush, so maybe i’ve been lucky.