Terroni Brentwood
Stopped by for a very late dinner. The place is, for lack of a better word, stunning! I did not expect such an impressive and intricate buildout. Brentwood ain’t used to this level of swank. Very positive first impression walking up and in.
Service is…interesting. It might be going too far to call it cold, but it’s certainly not warm or gregarious. It just does not exude hospitality. To be clear, it’s not to the point where it would stop me from returning, but worth noting.
The food…and now it all goes downhill.
Amatriciana is my favorite pasta dish, so when I saw a rigatoni amatriciana on the menu, I had to order it.
It looked typical enough on the plate when it arrived.
But then I took a bite. A stab of noodles with a strip of guanciale.
Noodles: Not al dente, but not a mush. Passable but not optimal.
Sauce: Tomato forward, but missing spice and tang. Needed pepper flakes, maybe more tomato paste too. Again, passable though not screaming amatriciana.
Guanciale: Yikes. I almost cracked my tooth. Perhaps an errant piece, so I tried another. And I almost cracked my tooth again. Ok let’s try another. This time I tried with all my might to bite though it, while guarding against any actual tooth damage. No matter how hard I tried, I simply could not bite though the guanciale. I would say hard as rock, but I bet I could break some rock with my teeth. No, it was hard as diamond.
I examined the guanciale and came to a quick conclusion based on the visual and tactile characteristics. They overcooked the living shit out of it. Nearly fully rendered fat in the middle of the strip with diamonds on each end.
I brought it up to the hostess (my server was MIA), and while she wasn’t dismissive, I felt like I had to prove myself and the severity of the issue.
She brought it over to the kitchen, came back a few minutes later, and let me know that they couldn’t remake the dish properly as the guanciale had all been cooked that morning, so it would all be the same.
Had nobody ordered that dish today? How was this the first they were hearing about this? This is so far beyond a quibble with technique (“I ordered my steak medium rare not medium”)…it’s a genuine safety/liability issue.
Then my server resurfaced, and had a perplexed look on her face when she saw regurgitated guanciale bits resting on my knife. It seems the hostess had not mentioned anything to her. So now I felt uncomfortable and had to re-explain everything to her so as to not look like an infant who spits up food.
I’m now slowly picking at a replacement bolognese pasta that I ordered. It’s…passable, I guess. I hope they comp it but I doubt they will.
I won’t be back.
UPDATE: They did not comp the bolognese. And they even charged me the bolognese pricing (which is higher than the amatriciana). I didn’t ask for or even hint at wanting anything comped, but it would have been a nice gesture, and is further evidence of the kind of ship they’re sailing. I still tipped 20%, what’s a couple dollars to me?