Many of us here fondly remember a very special restaurant called Ortolan, which was located on 3rd St. (east of the Beverly Center). Though it shuttered back around 2011, Ortolan made an indelible mark on the palates of many Angeleno diners with its devotion to traditional excellence in execution, as well as bold tastes. Ortolan owner and chef Christophe Émé garnered a Michelin star during his time here. But since the closure of the restaurant, we haven’t have many further chances to try his cooking.
So it was with great anticipation that we attended this pop-up at Papilles.
Salted butter & bread… Excellent.
Amuse bouche: Whipped potato with smoked trout, garnished with trout roe… Gentle and flavorful!
Beef carpaccio, pickled mushroom, herb salad… Wonderful. The slight sourness of the pickled mushrooms was perfect for the beef.
Foie gras terrine, fruit chutney, toast… No need to be inventive; this is just a really well executed foie gras presentation - Rich (as foie gras should be) and elegantly seasoned.
Scallop, ricotta, artichoke, tomato… Beautiful amalgamation of tastes and textures!
John Dory, sea urchin, potato, truffle… Here the truffle is used with exact precision to bring out the flavors of the exquisitely prepared fish without overpowering its natural taste. A formidably well-executed dish!
Squab, salsify, pear… Fantastic. It’s easy to tell that the chef really takes care of his ingredients.
Another shot of this perfectly cooked course - Wonderful counterpoint in tastes and textures in this dish. (Kudos to Papilles owner Santos Uy for the classy presence of Laguiole knives so that diners may easily work on this bird…)
Pork belly, white bean, Basquaise… So tender you could cut it with a spoon, and yet the skin retains a gorgeously flavorful crispiness, reminiscent of a good lechon or babi guling!
Dessert 1: Lemon crème, meringue, sablé… Just the right amount of tart and sweetness.
Dessert 2: Chocolate, sorbet, hazelnut, crumble… Death by chocolate! So decadent.
“BRAVO!!!” to Chef Christophe Émé and his entire team. This was an exquisite meal!
Chef Christophe Émé Pop-Up at Papilles: February 7th, 8th,and 9th, 2017
6221 Franklin Ave.
Los Angeles, CA 90028