We’ve been hearing on FTC and via various news outlets of ways that folks in the restaurant industry are trying to adjust to survive during the pandemic. Reading the recent LA Times article by Bill Addison about new Takeout efforts (from Chefs / Cooks via their own home or other kitchen spaces), one that caught my eye was a Chef doing their version of a variety of Banchan (Korean Side Dishes), which sounded perfect for this weather.
Perilla LA is a new solo Takeout project from Chef Jihee Kim (previously worked for Chef Michael Mina, Gary Danko (SF) and Rustic Canyon). On any given week, you’ll find her offering multiple types of Banchan along with a few other cooked dishes.
First, the chilled Banchan, which were fantastic and cooling in this scorching Summer weather!
Fermented Cucumber with Melon (Fermented Cucumber, Melon Seasoned with Korean Chili Flake, and Garlic):
While it says it’s fermented, this isn’t the super funky fermentation you might be thinking about from some Korean restaurants’ Kimchi offerings. It’s fresh, bright and the chilled, soft Fermented Cucumber and Melon bites were nicely seasoned, spicy, but because it’s chilled, refreshing.
Purslane Namul (Lightly Blanched Purslane, Onion Seasoned with Fermented Soybean Paste, Garlic, Green Plum Extract, Sesame Oil):
This felt like a more elevated dish from a classically trained Chef perspective, refined, interesting use of Purslane, Green Plum Extract with more familiar ingredients like Fermented Soybean Paste and Sesame Oil.
Garlic Summer Squash (Summer Squash Braised with Garlic Finished with Garlic Chili Oil):
Loved this dish! Supple bites of Summer Squash braised with Green Onions, Garlic and fragrant, light heat from the Chili Oil, tempered beautifully by it being chilled. We devoured this in seconds!
Ginger Soy Braised Yam (Braised Soy Sauce with Ginger and Orange Peel):
Another winner! Normally Yam is met by mixed reactions amongst friends and family (some really don’t like it, others love it to death). But here, Chef Kim elevates Yam to a point that even Yam haters might love it: A perfect braising, infusing each bite with just the right amount of Soy Sauce, Ginger and Orange Peel. The result is something delicate, lightly earthy, but engaging with the citrus and Ginger spice notes.
Scallion Muchim (Blanched Scallion Seasoned with Toasted Seaweed):
I love Scallions in general, but the Blanched Scallions with Toasted Seaweed, Sesame Seeds and chilled tames the more potent onion-y notes and creates another tasty dish.
Eggplant Namul (Steamed Eggplant then Marinated with Garlic, Scallion, Serrano Pepper and Sesame Oil):
Rolled Egg (Rolled Egg with Seaweed):
First, there’s a strange hypnotic effect if you end up staring into the center of these Rolled Eggs and try to follow the lines. Chef Kim has been making this dish since she was a kid, and they are fantastic!
Perfectly cooked Eggs, a little burst of Seaweed in the center, and you have another highlight.
Marinated Okra (Charred Okra Marinated with Soy Soy Vinegar Overnight):
A very good preparation, without any of the sliminess associated with Okra at times, cool, tart-savory.
Besides the excellent Banchan, Chef Kim also offers a few hot, cooked dishes. This week:
Salmon Gui (Seared Salmon with Garlic Chive Sauce):
We liked the crisped Salmon Skin (although a touch steamed/softened by being in Takeout containers), the Salmon was maybe a touch overcooked (just a bit), but mainly tender, moist and nicely seasoned. But the Garlic Chive Sauce really elevates this dish, enhancing each bite of the Salmon dramatically.
Spicy Bulgogi (Thin Sliced Beef Marinated with Gochujang Sauce and Yuba):
And then you get to this:
A powerhouse of flavors, Chef Kim’s take on the classic Korean BBQ favorite, Spicy Bulgogi, is a mouth-watering bite of fantastic sweet-salty, real depth of flavor, light beefiness and perfectly tender slices of Marinated Grilled Beef in a balanced Gochujang Sauce, and she mixes in Yuba! Yuba, the lovely “Tofu Skin” (the thin, delicate layer that happens when you make Soy Milk), adds this delicate lovely mouthfeel and textural contrast to the Bulgogi.
This was one of the best Bulgogi dishes we’ve had in recent memory. Highlight!
Seasoned Rice (Rice Seasoned with Soy Marinated Mushroom, Pickles, Furikake, Nori):
Toothsome Seasoned Rice (not overly mushy or dried out), I loved the textural contrast with the Pickled Yellow Radish, Marinated Mushrooms and Furikake.
Gimbap (Rice, Avocado, Mushroom, Pickled Daikon, Garlic Chive Rolled in with Toasted Seaweed, comes with Hot Mustard Sauce):
I am not a Gimbap expert, the Korean Rolls of Rice wrapped with Seaweed that resembles various Japanese Cut Rolls, but with different fillings. However, of the limited amount of Gimbap we’ve tried over the years, Perilla LA’s Gimbap might very well be the best I’ve ever had!
First, it’s made fresh to order, so many versions you find in Korean supermarkets or various places taste like it’s pre-made. The Rice here is not dried out, still pliant and the fillings are incredibly fresh and bright. The Pickled Carrots, Radish, the bit of creaminess in the Avocado, Mushroom, the Garlic Chives, and that incredible Hot Mustard Sauce!
It may not sound like much, but the confluence of all of the ingredients together make this an outstanding dish on Perilla LA’s menu.
Ordering is via Perilla LA’s online site and then they will confirm your order and send a pickup address (in the Koreatown area).
Chef Jihee Kim and her new Takeout project Perilla LA is providing a beautiful source for elevated Banchan (Korean Side Dishes) and other tasty creations. Especially during the hot Summer months here in L.A., the array of chilled Banchan were the perfect antidote to melting heat. If there’s one thing that felt “missing” perhaps, would be the familiar pungent, funky aged Kimchi to go along with all of these fantastic Banchan.
But otherwise, don’t forget to also try her amazing Spicy Bulgogi: Tender, perfectly seasoned, balanced, sweet-savory slivers of Marinated Grilled Beef and the Yuba combination is outstanding! And also the Gimbap, quite possibly the best Gimbap I’ve had in L.A., especially with that Hot Mustard Sauce. Wow.
Perilla LA is creating invigorating dishes that feel perfect during the Summer. We can’t wait to see what’s next.
Perilla LA