Cotogna - North Beach

very good lunch at cotogna. favorites were the dungeness crab soup, the delicious prosciutto, gorgonzola with gnocco fritto, spaghetti with butter and anchovies, and tagliatelle.

dungeness crab soup with wild fennel & espelette

butter lettuce salad with meyer lemon crema, avocado & bottarga di muggine

prosciutto with gnocco fritto & lambrusco pickled onions

sicilian tuna crudo con pistachio di bronte

tagliolini con ragu di agnello e carciofi novella

tagliatelle all’uovo “7” meat ragu

spaghetti con burro e accuighe

crème fraiche & rhubarb panna cotta

Cotogna
490 Pacific Ave
San Francisco, CA 94133

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Lunch for three? Or four? Looks great.

Gnocco fritto, I love those and haven’t seen them in a few years. Do you know if they were fried in lard?

I don’t know. but what really made it standout from others I’ve tried was the creamy gorgonzola dolce. that with the pickled onions was the perfect crispy, salty, creamy, airy bite.

it’s odd they don’t even list the gorgonzola on the menu.

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Taking this as a sign to post a very good dinner at Cotogna last month. The outdoor space they built is quite lovely, with twinkling lights and plants to help distract from the fact you’re actually on the sidewalk/street. (I preferred it to the indoor dining room which felt loud from sound bouncing off the hard surfaces.) They have a covered ceiling and patio heaters overhead to keep the temperature comfortable.

Drink Menu

Dinner Menu

Celery root sformato with black trumpet mushrooms and hazelnuts

Focaccia di Recco

Tagliolini with Dungeness crab, Meyer lemon, and green garlic

Bistecca a la Fiorentina with Bintje potatoes and garden lettuces

Meyer lemon sorbetto

Focaccia di Recco was super thin and flaky, enveloping a lovely, mild, milky stracchino cheese and seasoned lightly with flake salt. Loved the copper pan it came on. Tagliolini was delicious as was the steak, served perfectly medium rare, but the potatoes that came alongside were notably fantastic - crisp on the outside and soft and fluffy inside. Great wood-fired cooking all around. Chowpup reports that the sorbetto was “not too sweet” and “just a tiny bit bitter from the zest.”

Wished we had tried the prosciutto with gnocco fritto, and now regret it doubly after your review!

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Great photos and report.

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the gnocco fritto and corn triangolo may have been my favorite bites of the trip.

gnocco fritto, prosciutto, gorgonzola & pickled onion

cherry tomato salad, burrata & dragon tongue bean

fresh run farm chalupa romaine, anchovy & parmiggiano reggiano

charanteis melon, serpentine cucumber & malinalco tomatillo

corn triangoli, butter & chive

mezze maniche, guanciale, chanterelle mushroom & pistachio

spaghetti burro, acciughe e finocchietto

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Cotogna has apparently become one of those places where you have to reserve 3-4 weeks ahead.

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Sat in front of the pizza oven and grill for Wed lunch a few times last year

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Had a nice three-hour lunch on Friday.

Suppli al telefono, half with guanciale, half vegetarian. Would have ordered all with guanciale if we’d known. Excellent though could have been hotter.

Gnocco fritto with prosciutto was great. Gorgonzola and pickled onions were gilding the lily. Extra gnocco (gnocchi?) $1 each.

I guess I neglected to photograph the eggplant sformato. Brilliant dish, lovely texture and great sauce.

Italian sommelier made great suggestions.

Squid, beans, and celery salad, very good, celery made the dish.

Exceptional Teroldego made in amphorae.

Squab bottoni with chanterelles, rich and unctuous. Lovely.

Mezze maniche with lamb sugo. Very good.

Focaccine were very good but more oil than I wanted, would prefer plain bread to go with the pastas and main.

Swordfish. I would have preferred the fiorentina or chicken but my two friends were punking out.

Neglected to photograph the cheese course. It was fine though I’d have preferred all Italian, two of three were local.

Strawberry meringata, excellent.

Chocolate and fig cremoso, ditto.

The Viola “50 Gradi all’Ombra” (“122 degrees in the shade”) late-harvest Grillo was fantastic. I’ve had his wines many times but didn’t know he made a dessert wine.

I wish my companions had had more appetite, I would have eaten more. Prices are steep but fair for the exceptional service and quality of the ingredients, clearly helps to be connected to the Michelin three-star next door. If the menu was Frenchified I’m sure they’d have one star.

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