Delhi, january 2023

we were in delhi again for most of january (with a side-trip to goa). for the few people who’re interested, here’s a thread tracking the places we ate at in delhi; i’ll start a separate thread later for goa.

i’m putting the reviews up on my blog in fairly random order. here’s what’s up so far:

  1. oh! assam: a restaurant in the neighbourhood of humayunpur in south delhi that is the major location of restaurants (and people) from the northeastern states in the city. it’s a tiny place but the food is very good–and very little of it is seen in indian restaurants outside india (or for that matter in most parts of india).

  2. sagar ratna: this, on the other hand, is an outpost of the major udupi chain in north india. they’ve been around in delhi since the mid-1980s. not the best place anymore to get idlis, vadas, dosas etc. but so much better than anything in the u.s that it hurts a bit.

  1. matamaal: located in an unprepossessing strip mall in gurgaon is what is almost certainly delhi’s best kashmiri restaurant (perhaps ever). this is the only place we ate at twice on this trip; both meals were great. i only wish those of you who are fans of what passes for rogan josh in restaurants in the u.s could eat the real thing.
  1. bhawan: this is a relatively new restaurant from rahul dua and kainaz contractor. rahul dua came to prominence as the original executive chef at cafe lota and has in many ways set the tone for contemporary indian restaurants in delhi that present a menu of multi-regional food. bhawan has an emphasis on snack foods but his lota signature appears on the rest of the menu.