Forget About Dinner - The Surprisingly Delicious Japanese Italian American Brunch at Orso & Winston [Thoughts + Pics]

Update:

It had been well over a year since our last visit to Orsa & Winston; we happened to be in the area and decided to drop in for Brunch.

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As we glanced over the menu we realized things had changed: They lost their Pastry Chef and there are no more of their hidden gem Pastries available any more. That was only a sign of things to come…

Grain Pancakes (Maple Syrup, Butter):

One of the highlights from Orsa & Winston’s Brunch menu previously, this was not as good as before: Still retaining some griddled crispness, but it wasn’t as deeply flavorful as before. But overall it was still a pretty solid, lightly nutty Grain Pancake.

Seared Okra (Tomato Ume Plum Sauce):

This was pretty good: A nice plate of Seared Okra, the Japanese Plum added a nice tartness that contrasted with the earthy, lightly viscous nature of Okra.

Chicken Katsu with Black Truffle (Tomato Ume Plum Sauce):

It was only after taking a bite that we realized that they used the same Tomato Ume Plum Sauce in this dish as the Okra. Oh well.

The Chicken Katsu (Cutlet) had a decent light crispiness to the battered exterior, with moist Chicken within, but the seasoning was rather basic and one note. The Black Truffle was barely fragrant.

5th Visit:

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Rocket Arugula & Castelfranco Salad (Apricot, Asiago, Tsukune Chicken Sausage, Oregano):

We liked the heartier, slightly bitter notes from this Salad, contrasted with the Dried Apricots. The Tsukune Chicken Sausage was disappointing: Only a small portion buried at the bottom that was rather basic and salty. :frowning:

Seafood Porridge (Satsuki Rice, Dashi, Yuzu, Parmesan Cheese):

Perhaps the biggest disappointment at the current Brunch menu at Orsa & Winston is the downfall of their Satsuki Rice Porridge:

They increased the price (now a whopping $38 (+ tax & tip) for Brunch), and they only serve it with 1.5 small slivers of Uni, and removed the Abalone! :cry: Previously, we had 4 tongues of Uni and there was actual Uni flavor in the Sauce.

The Scallops were overcooked (slightly), but most importantly, the whole thing was watered down (see pics):

This was way more watery (rather off-putting), and the overall flavors just tasted more muted and disparate. It was nowhere near as good as the previous incarnation we had a year ago. :frowning:

Pork Kakuni (Shoyu Egg, Koshihikari Rice, Fresh Ginger):

Even worse than the downfall of their Satsuki Rice Porridge is their Pork Kakuni Rice dish. The Japanese dish known as Buta no Kakuni is a long-stewed Pork dish, found with chunks of fatty & lean Pork cubes, with the better versions being so unctuous and tender and succulent from being cooked for so long. At Orsa & Winston it’s like pan-seared slivers of fatty Bacon! :frowning: The pork is like 80% Fat, terrible. It was also chewy and lacked any love from the great mom & pop Japanese Izakaya joints that make this soul food.

Even worse than that, the Koshihikari Rice they serve it with is all clumped and overcooked and slightly gummy. :sob: (Compare this to the brilliance of the rice at places like Wadatsumi and Tendon Tempura Carlos Junior - places far less “fancy”, little casual spots - they take pride in cooking fantastic Rice because they realize how important it is.)

At least their Shoyu Hanjuku Tamago (Soy Sauce Egg) was beautifully cooked.

At this point it seems like there’s been staff changes (beyond losing their Pastry Chef). The cooking is markedly worse, as if there’s no pride, and as if there are different people cooking these dishes. The current Seafood Porridge (Satsuku Rice Porridge) is the biggest tragedy, nowhere near as stunning or amazing as it used to be; now just watery and mediocre, and with an increased price to boot.

Orsa & Winston
122 W 4th Street
Los Angeles, CA 90013
Tel: (213) 687-0300

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