Going to Memphis What to eat?

I’ll be in Memphis heading to Boliver for a funeral. Any must haves?
Thanks!

Having JUST come home from there, I can recommend Itta Bena for dinner (above BB King’s and through a “secret” door), Sunrise Memphis for breakfast and Ernestine & Hazel’s for beer and ghosts. I had a portabello mushroom sandwich at Central BBQ and a drink at Charlie Vergos Rendezvous, 'cause I don’t eat meat, but people who do seem to like those places a lot. I was also advised that Catherine & Mary’s is very good, but it serves the same kind of food I can get in Manhattan, so I didn’t bother.

And if you’re like me, you will also be compelled to order the gumbo cheese fries at Blues City Cafe, because where the hell else are you going to get gumbo cheese fries? (Answer: nowhere, and a good thing, too.)

gumbo%20cheese%20fries

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Thank you!