Golden Bear Station - Joshua Smookler - Kenwood

where the hell are we treasure map

GOLDEN BEAR STATION

escaped los angeles, escaped home too

headed north then north again

killed time up a grade, walked around

deer jumping by on their way

descended to sit down

drank a bottle of carignan, glass of lemonade

back to it out the door

but we had dinner, that’s for sure

loved drinking the tomato water and herb vinaigrette

“yeah I’ll do a vin and tonic”

salad and a garden pool, little spring in the base, peas, asparagus, carrots

Spicy Tuna
Sushi Rice, Blue Fin Tuna, Tomato water, basil

Bib Salad
Boston bib, assorted greens, herb vinaigrette

maitake of the sea

give me more of that onion dip

great eating with your hands dishes, make a mess, feel foolish

Gambas al Ajillo
Spanish prawns, garlic, olive oil

Hen of the woods
Maitake mushrooms, yuzu sesame, sweet onions

first dessert course: hot honey

I had no guesses for when the pizza might be out but that was the perfect time

halftime show

Hot Honey
Stracciatella, soppressata, San Marzano D.O.P., spicy honey

now colatura and guanciale

perfect slow down moment, hit the target, look out yards ahead of you, yards

Aglio e Olio
Spaghetti, parsley, Colatura, lemon zest

Amatriciana
Bucatini, guanciale, tomato, chili, pecorino

Fries

let the gear spin out

it’s fries and monkfish time

Monkfish
Pan roasted monkfish in green peppercorn sauce

a cherry on top and hit the road

Sundae
Warm brownie, pecan pie, and ice cream

Golden Bear Station
8445 Sonoma Hwy
Kenwood, CA 95452
(707) 282-9148

7 Likes

My org (of 7 people) was doing a team retreat up in Sonoma, and on the last night we went out for dinner, at my urging…

Autumn Salad

Burrata, radicchio, grilled persimmons, walnuts, balsamic

Killer combinations - the bitterness of the radicchio played well against all of the other constituent parts. Persimmons were lovely.

Hen of the woods

Sweet onions, yuzu sesame, egg yolk

Perfectly cook on the mushrooms despite their relatively massive size. Great with the sweet onion foam. Egg yolk helped round it out.

The online menu might be a little out of date and I didn’t think to take a picture of the physical menu, so I’m rederiving the first two pastas from a combination of memory and the receipt.

Cacio e Pepe

Shaved mushrooms (forget which kind)

Aglio e Olio

Squid Ink Bucatini, lemon zest, anchovy extract

Lumache

Braised sausage, rapini, snail shaped pasta

Truffle Udon

Tteok-Bokki

Bolognese, pesto

The pastas were all quite good, my rough ranking would probably Udon ~ Squid Ink ~ Lumache > Mushroom > Tteok-Bokki.

Dover Sole

Brown butter sauce

Some of the best fish I’ve ever eaten. Very tender without being mushy, delicate flavor which nonetheless stood up to the sauce (a very effective complement).

Complimentary Salad

Nice leaves, great (mostly invisible) dressing.

Dry Aged Porterhouse

48oz, medium-rare

Correspondingly, some of the best steak I’ve ever eaten. Really excellent and noticeable funk from the dry-aging, which wasn’t limited to the fatty bits, but also didn’t get overwhelming. Great texture and bite on the meat. Crazy that I can get this in Sonoma but not, as far as I can tell, in SF.

Potatoes

Side to steak

Good. Second side unpictured (grilled rapini, iirc), also good.

Basque Cheesecake

Sundae

Desserts also good, though I’m not a basque cheesecake guy so if it was excellent I’m not sure I’d be able to tell you.


The starters and pastas were great, but it feels like it’s been a while since I’ve been somewhere where the large-format mains killed it so hard. There were some slightly worrying reviews on Yelp about the service, but it was fantastic in our case, despite the fact that I walked in at 7 pm to make a reservation for 8 pm (online bookings being limited to a max of 6 people, and no phone service). Surprisingly helpful advice on menu choices, plates cleared at the appropriate times, etc. Worth a trip, I think. I want to come back and try the Grilled Kkot Kalbi from their kbbq section, and the turbot. Came out to something like… $120 a head, after tip and tax? Very reasonable, considering that included 2.5 drinks (one non-alcoholic beer, one glass of wine, one martini) and 5 desserts, for 7 people.


They also run a breakfast sandwich concept called SPK in the mornings…

Competitive, to my taste, though the use of Boichik Bagels may be divisive. They also make all of their pastries in house (except the pain au chocolat). Unpictured are a canele (which I ate immediately, pretty good) and a kougin-amann, which I saved for the next day (finished eating 10 second ago - fantastic, almost wish I’d found room to squeeze it in somewhere yesterday).

3 Likes

Epic does a good job with steak.

2 Likes

Excellent, thanks for the rec.