Guadalajara

Casa Fuerte - Tlaquepaque

https://www.instagram.com/p/B4vee50gx0w/

I was glad to see this longtime favorite made it through Covid. In contrast to the somewhat international / European-influenced cuisine at a lot of local restaurants, the menu’s traditional local dishes, with some modern touches but sticking to the traditional flavors. Video linked above has good shots of the lovely atrium dining area.

Butter is wrapped in corn husk. Tostadas are as thin as pappadum.

That red salsa is seriously hot.

Ensalada de nopal: the cactus is cooked and served warm, reminded me of green beans.

Torta de elote, savory version with chile sauce, similar to spoon bread.

Chile relleno con queso. No batter so lighter than the usual. The crunchy masa bowl for the beans was a nice touch.

They also have a cold chile relleno filled with squash blossom and topped with salsa de nuez that’s a riff on chiles en nogada.

Tamarind frozen margarita, free with main course. Refreshing.

Torta de elote, dessert version. Same cake but with a sweet sauce and some sweet crunchy bits.


Guanabana mousse with black sapote sauce. Nice. Not going to get that at home!

Service is good and friendly. English menus if you want / need one.

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Cenaduría Doña Guille - Villaseñor

Neglected to take photos. Apparently a favorite among locals. Funny modern decor, some people complain that it’s not funky like a typical cenaduria. Flauta, sope, boned pig foot, pan de elote all good. An agua fresca of jamaica (hibiscus) and guayaba was surprisingly good, refreshing and not too sweet.

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Cenaduria Victoria, Tlaquepaque

cheese enchiladas

potatoes

potato and bean sope

Classic regional cooking, all good. The meal was 78 pesos / $3.80 US before tip.

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Bruna’s an upscale place that started out as an art gallery (there’s still one upstairs plus the sculpture garden you can see in the back) and it has correspondingly arty decor. Nevertheless the food’s fairly traditional. We got there early so it was pretty empty. There’s a second large dining area around the corner through the garden.

The cocktail program’s artier than the rest of the menu. Some of the drinks come with theater. This was an Antartik Tonic.

Complimentary rolls. They brought out more as we ate them.

Mole tasting was fun. Came with plenty of excellent tortillas.

Pork jowl with if I remember right huitlacoche.

Place filled up fast.

Seafood flautas.

Duck tamal.

Short rib en su jugo.

Carafe wine.

Cheese board. It was interesting because they were all modern artisanal domestic cheeses, I think all sheep and goat, but they have a way to go to match the quality of French or US.

Crema de elote brulee. Quite good and an original twist on a traditional dessert.

Exchange rate was around 20 pesos to the dollar.

Fun time. I liked getting the upscale arty Guadalajara atmosphere without having the food be an attempt at a Michelin tasting menu.

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Cutzalan, sort of a celebrity chef place, Maru Toledo collects obscure recipes from all over Jalisco and has published them in various cookbooks and pamphlets. Not sure how involved she is, might have just consulted on the menu. Basically a breakfast / brunch place. Has a lot of dishes I’d never heard of before. It’s in on a pedestrian plaza with a small indoor market in the next block.

Wixárika: chilaquiles with a sauce of epazote, mushrooms, and wild greens.

I can’t remember what this was, some other dish I’d never heard of.

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Went to Quelite for brunch on Sunday. A lot of interesting things from their dinner menu weren’t on offer, but my friends talked them into letting them order some anyway.

Quesadilla de huitlacoche: really good though I didn’t care for the tried squash blossoms.

Huazontles fritters: new to me.

Tetela.

Pork tongue from the dinner menu. Good. None of us had had it before, the usual is beef or veal tongue.

Enfrijolada with tasty chorizo.

Blue corn pancakes. I had thought maybe it would be savory but there was a jam or compote that made it not too sweet. Nice.

Pan de elote: a more custardy / dessert-y version than most, especially with the sweet sauce.

This place is really good and deserves more business. We drove past a bunch of places that were packed on our way there. Looking forward to having dinner on my next visit.

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Mignardise from Volaris. Five years, first time I had a positive test. Would have thought it was a mild cold.

oh no! hope you avoid the worst of it and recover quickly.

Wasn’t that bad and I was better in six days.

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Went to La Matera, an Argentine place where my friends are regulars. Really nice atmosphere on the porch. Photo from their web site.

It’s mostly a grilled-meat specialist but I wasn’t in the mood. The chistorra was solid.

Hongos al Ajillo were great.

Neapolitan-style pizza with anchovies and Kalamata olives was tasty but really soggy due to so many juicy tomatoes, plus they sliced it.

Ate con queso, sweet potato jelly with cheese. The ate was good, I’m really curious how they make it as it was a lot less starchy than mashed sweet potatoes, somehow they got rid of a lot of the starch. It doesn’t have the acid to pair well with cheese the way quince membrillo does.

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Pizza pastor Cazador with al pastor, “100% Mexicano” chorizo, onion, and cilantro dressing delivered from Wrocco Wrowers. Great toppings, crust just OK. Would order again. Insanely fast, the pie was on its way to us eight minutes after I ordered it.

It’s weird to me that most pizzeris here have only the same toppings you’d find in the US.

https://www.ubereats.com/mx-en/store/wrocco-wrowers-pizza-adolf-horn/muHiNOloQIyg_oOWAxHhpA

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My friend described La Tequila as fonda food for rich people who are afraid to eat on the street. Fair enough, but the food’s really good and I didn’t get sick. I like having the upscale Guadalajara atmosphere while still getting hardcore traditional food. Place has been in business for at least 30 years.

I neglected to photograph my tejuino de guyaba, masa fermented with piloncillo and water, mixed with guava, and topped with tart lime sorbet. Kind of like a slightly alcoholic milkshake crossed with atole.

Complimentary chips and bean salad. Somebody threw a piece of avocado on there when they were clearing plates.

Sopecitos. They made the salsa at bottom left tableside, you can have it as spicy as you like. “Picante” was not very.

Tacos with yerba santa and cheese. Good though I didn’t get a lot of herb flavor.

Tacos of shrimp with chapulines crust? Good though the grasshopper got lost.

Neglected to photograph the quesadillas and another antojito or two.

Flan de elote, kind of a cross between flan and pan de elote. Good.

I"d go back to try the barbacoa de hoya (mutton pit-roasted in maguey leaves).

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