Japan Trip Report October 2024

My wife & I got back from our 12 day trip to Japan, we stuck to Tokyo and Kyoto since it was a relatively short trip stacked with reservations and places to go to. First night we went to Bar Salon De Shimaji, a whisky centric bar who’s owner use to be the Playboy editor in Japan for decades. Very cool spot with hard to find Japanese and Scotch whiskies. He has connections to many of the big names like Suntory, so they make private bottlings like a 30 year Hakushu! This place is frequented by some very eccentric folks (just like the owner). Steeze for days as the young kids would call it!


We then went to Izakaya Narukiyo, which was featured on Netflix. When I think of an Izakaya, this is exactly the type of place I’m looking for. Pure fun vibes all around. Everyone is loud, beer/nihonshu is flowing, and the food is awesome. Highly recommend.




Lunch at Torioka, a newly opened offshoot of Torishiki in Azabudai Hills. This meal showcased the art of yakitori and how extraordinary Japanese chicken can be. Drool worthy. Highly recommend for lunch. It is inside the Azabudai Hills Market center, which also has a Yamayuki tuna station, Sushi Saito branch, and an insane selection of everything you can dream of; it reminded me of a higher end Erewhon or whole foods.












Dinner at Cignale Enoteca, a Japanese Italian spot tucked into a residential alley in Meguro.
Service was outstanding, and I loved every single dish. I think both my wife & I teared up as we left since it was such a beautiful experience. This is a must go in my opinion. Pro tip: buy a couple of their chili oil bottles on the way out

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Sushi Higashiazabu Seiko. Neta was flawless, but unfortunately his shari was way off. Hard and cold. Otsumami were great though. Not sure I can recommend it unless it was an off night in terms of the rice…










Dinner at Lurra in Kyoto. I use to work with Jacob for a short time. This meal solidified my opinion of Jacob being a culinary genius, which I don’t say lightly. Truly amazing. The restaurant is absolutely beautiful, sound track was bangin’, and the food was just as gorgeous as it was fucking delicious! He use to work at Noma, and with this menu it felt like I was eating at Noma using only ingredients from Kyoto. His non alcoholic pairing is mind-blowing. Highly Highly recommend, more FTC’ers need to come here!










Dinner at Nikuryori Oka in the Gion District. I wanted a meat focused omakase and this delivered in spades. Beautiful and diverse cuts of wagyu. Chef is very humble and hospitable.









Lots of ramen lunches, including Kikanbo in Tokyo, Gion Duck noodles in Kyoto, and Ramen Afrobeats in Tokyo. They were all next level compared to what we have here.



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Tempura Kyoboshi in Gion. Really enjoyed the batter here, super thin and uniform. Just really solid delicious tempura, nuff’ said.










Thanks to Dylan (Tori Tory Tore!) for this recommendation, Yakitori Takahashi was the best yakitori meal during my trip. I believe they got their first star a day or two after I dined here. Absolute perfection on every skewer. If you only go to one yakitori meal in Japan, this should be it.










Lunch at Savoy. Dare I say it, Savoy > Sei > PST.


Dinner at Kanjo, a duck & soba themed omakase in Tokyo. Chef’s father was a soba master and his grandfather was a sushi master. The soba was the best I’ve tried. Raw duck nigiri tasted like akami. Very unique, I loved the grated daikon mountain we were encouraged to eat in between each piece of kamo.










Lastly, lots of delicious sake, especially from Eureka!





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Mind-blowing! Now THAT is tabe aruki done right!

Thank you so much for sharing!

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Are either Izakaya Narukiyo or Yakitori Takahashi places you need to make reservations for ahead of time? Ok for kids? They are good eaters, well behaved and we’ve taken them to Majordomo, Carbone, Mother Wolf, etc…

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Takahashi you can make a reservation for through Tablecheck. I made mine about two weeks ahead of time. My friend living in Tokyo made the reservation for Narukiyo one month out, but if you go on a weekday I’m pretty confident you’ll be able to walk in, they don’t require reservations.

As for kids, I wouldn’t recommend bringing them to Takahashi. Narukiyo I would if you sit at the tables and not the counter.

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This summer I made a reservation night before and didn’t have a problem. Granted it was late June (rainy, hot season) and a week day.

Narukiyo was really fun and felt like the quintessential izakaya. Would definitely recommend, but have to caveat I got sick the night of/morning after this meal. Would wager it was from the chef pictured (portly dude, very convivial) using his cutting board for everything raw and cooked (not something I saw repeated at other izakayas).

Also there was a family seated near us at the counter, two kids probably like 8 and 12, and chef dude really put on a show for them.

*I made a Narukiyo rez on AutoReserve.

** Also great post @formersushichef. Ramen was the biggest surprise for me. Not a huge fan in the States, but the level of cooking and care for a 1300y bowl I was not prepared for.

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I also feel the need to mention that, since you’re considering bringing your kids, there are a lot of phalic pictures, action figures, drawings, and plates at Narukiyo. The chef/owner wears a bandana on his head that says “**** off” :rofl:

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Haha duly noted. My wife sometimes curses like a sailor and gets into trouble by my kids. But explaining the birds and bees is/was not my most proud parenting moment.

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Thanks so much!

Looks like we’re headed here about a year after your trip and I’m definitely taking notes.

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This board’s recommendations really helped on my trip last month, which was my first time in Tokyo. Eureka was an absolute highlight and basically worth the trip on its own. They had a number of barrel-aged sakes exclusive to the shop. I’d also suggest Noura in Asakusa - really friendly, lively and with a great confit duck leg.

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just booked at Takahashi. Excited!

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I’m excited for you! Hands down my favorite yakitori meal ever. They had a pretty stellar sake selection as well. If you ask for off the menu skewers, they will serve anything as long as he has them available. I tried chicken shirako for the first time there.

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have heard some not so great things about auto reserve. But your reservation worked out fine? I’ve made two reservations in Otaru that seemingly are legitimate, but Reddit suggests that AutoReserve should be avoided at all costs…

(I paid $40 for a random sushi reservation but seemingly would have paid the same had I used byfood.)

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Hey! My reservation worked out fine. Think there was a 1000y charge. Caveat there were a few times AutoReserve wasn’t able to make a res. I tried for Butagumi and AutoReserve didn’t work, so had our concierge make one, guess AutoReserve doesn’t always come through.

Very small sample but no deep issues or horror stories. What does reddit say?

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apparently it’s an AI-platform. So it’s bots making the calls/resys. Occasionally it seems like there’s a breakdown between the bot and the restaurant. At the same time, for these small town spots, it’s my best option. So I’ll roll with it.

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Ended up at Eureka on my first night here. What a special place

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So auto reserve works?

Lol yes it does. 2/2 for me.

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Great I’ll be using that. Any other booking apps or services you recommend?

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Omakase and tablecheck are great and smaller fees. But by food and auto reserve and japaneazy work great too if there’s a spot you’re super set on

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Awesome! Thanks for that.

Any tips on purchasing the JR rail pass? Just go to ticket booth after landing or at any major train station?