Nikuyatanaka Ginza, April 2023 (Tokyo)

This is the pinnacle of beef for me to date. Wagyu kappo meal of purebred Tajima beef, this time 50-month female from Kobe, cooked by chef “Boss” Satoru Tanaka. Chef “Boss” Tanaka made a name for himself in Nagoya with Nikuya Setsugekka and various other wagyu restaurants (18 total), but now he’s cooking for a 9-seat counter (and private room) right in the heart of Ginza.

I wanted to keep this to myself, but who am I kidding, it’s a Tabelog Silver, 4.42 rating, and chef has many ardent fans but should be even more lauded. Counter was comfortable, service was very nice (chef in particular), and the 12-course meal was flawless. So many standouts, I can’t pick a favorite…

Reservations were quite easy to get and I’m very glad, because I can’t wait to return.

Chef prepping his famous beef and seabass maki roll

Peas were shockingly good. Incredible broth.

Wagyu-seabass-shiso maki with karasumi

Akagai, torigai, hokkigai, tairagai, with a shellfish dashi gelee. Such good textures.

Shabu-shabu. Texture and broth were lights out.

Tataki, incredible.

Grilled takenoko with kinome. Best of the trip for me. Sweet as corn.

Fried beef “tatsuaage”

Somen - the pinnacle of cold noodle for me

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Looks fantastic. Thanks for sharing!

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I’ve been several times now and it’s all been great. Boss is expanding and will now open in

  • Singapore - September 2025?
  • Hong Kong - December 2025?
  • New York (Tribeca) - June 2026? I believe this may be 428 Greenwich where Azabu NY used to be.

This is for the flagship restaurant Nikuya Tanaka. He has many other restaurants, notably Setsugekka high end yakiniku, but there’s also the fantastic yoshoku inn Yoshoku Tsubaki and now even a sushi restaurant co-produced with Sushi Arai.

I don’t think America has ever had the level of Japanese beef that Boss is serving at Nikuya Tanaka. His product is definitely different than the ultra fatty bit of export a5 MIyazaki wagyu one might get served in a Michelin tasting menu. Next year or two for New York is going to be insane with the influx of great restaurants.

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