Along with news of the impending departure of Shunji-san’s right hand shokunin Miki-san later this month, a new concept arises: Oryori Shunji. Oryori Shunji will be housed at the seven-seat bar adjacent to the main Shunji counter (also known as Shunji Annex), was where Miki-san presided over omakase service for many years.
O-ryori, in Japanese, denotes an honorific term for cuisine or cooking. And fans of Team Shunji’s otsumame are in for a treat here. No sushi will be served at Oryori Shunji. Rather, this multi-course tasting will be almost completely all cooked dishes, created by Shunji and his talented kitchen chefs! If one is craving nigiri, fear not, for Shunji-san will still plan to hold court at his usual signature sushi omakase in the next room for the foreseeable future.
The inaugural night of Oryori Shunji proved to be a true delight - hit after delicious hit! Let’s get started!
Chilled chawanmushi, seasonal vegetables, steamed shrimp… Marvelous opening dish. The emphasis on seasonal vegetables has always been a draw for many returning customers at Shunji.
Sashimi of smoked isaki, honmaguro akami (wild line-caught, Spain), with honmaguro chutoro… The only non-cooked dish of the evening was nonetheless outstanding. The house shoyu provided opened up the complexity of each piece here.
Next up: What’s in the bowl?
Somen, with grilled kasugodai, kasugodai dashi, kinome, Tokyo negi and goma… Just a study in beautiful restraint and delicacy. That incredible dashi broth “took a while to perfect,” admitted a smiling Shunji-san. We guests are the lucky ones. Huge bite!!!
Tachiuo bozushi with okra & wasabi, nori wrap… The rice, treated with just the right amount of akasu, tasted fantastic when paired with the highest grade nori here. Huge bite!!!
Dungeness crab, tozasu gelee, tomato, myoga… Pure joy to try this dish. Textural masterpiece.
Sake-steamed awabi with nasu, spring beans and tsuru-murasaki… Using three vegetables (common and rare) to bring out the best from this (very generous) piece of abalone!
Anago and renkon tempura, on a bed of aonori ankake… How the heck does Shunji-san come up with these excellent flavor combinations?! This presentation was spectacular. Huge bite!!!
Shokunin Yoshi-san brings out a large copper bowl to finish the next dish…
Country pork, seri, gobo, “shabu shabu” style… The rules for ingredients are much less restrained for oryori than for edomae omakase! Pork is on the menu! The aroma from this cozy yet complex soup reminds us of a home-cooked meal.
Gohan #1: Ayu gohan… Seasonal freshwater fish and mitsuba make for a lovely bowl of rice (or in my case, four bowls). Huge bite!!!
Yoshi-san, you’ve outdone yourself!
Gohan #2: Sakura ebi gohan… Seasonal saltwater shrimp and mitsuba allow the diner to enjoy a second (and different) round of terrific rice! Huge bite!!!
Tsukemono, miso and tea are served with the rice courses… Legit.
#BigMouthStrikesAgain
#AndAgain
Dessert time!
Pistachio purin… Housemade pistachio purin, reminiscent of panna cotta in its sensibitilty, marks a remarkable end to a memorable debut Oryori meal.
Hoji-cha… Fin.
I thoroughly enjoyed the debut of this Oryori Shunji format. The cooked dishes have always set Shunji Japanese Cuisine apart from other sushi-yas. Furthermore, at $190 per person, the current price point of this formidable Oryori costs less than most upper echelon sushi omakases in town - It is an absolute steal of a meal, considering the ingredients and execution involved. This assortment of Shunji’s creations is unlike anything else offered in L.A. at this time, and should be on the radar of all fans of Japanese gastronomy.
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED.
Oryori Shunji at Shunji Annex
Shunji Japanese Cuisine
3003 Ocean Park Bl.
Santa Monica, CA 90405
