Now almost a year after my visit to Shanghai, a brief report on what I ate. There’s at least a couple places I’ll update with in a separate reply.
I had plans to diarize my whole trip upon my return, but I had to work on something else so I didn’t get to narrate everything to myself. At least I’ve got the pictures and these brief memories – inspired to do it finally after @set0312 asked for some Shanghai recs and I worked through my pictures.
Yaya’s
In the Jing’an District, near a fancy shopping mall. Handmade pasta from a young restaurant group known for Mapo lasagna. (If you’re going, the menu might say it’s available for lunch only, but we saw many people order it for lunch). Reservation through WeChat app.
They also operate a place called Nono’s: https://www.instagram.com/nonos.shanghai/
Dong Tai Xiang – shengjianbao, small wonton soup
Dong Tai Xiang is one of the popular shengjianbao chains in Shanghai. This is a different style to Yang’s Dumplings. One can distinguish the styles by where the buns are folded and subsequently fried. DTX has a flat-fried bottom, with folds at the top. Almost universally, this style has a more leavened dough with a less soupy interior. Yang’s Dumplings has a fold-fried bottom, with a less sour dough and tons of soup. Yang’s Dumplings is the style that Kang Kang and Auntie Qiu here in the 626 make. Shanghailander & No 8 on the Bund make the DTX style. I prefer fold-fried.
But what DTX does better than Yang’s is small wonton soup. The soup had so much lard in it, so savory and satisfying! I brought this back to my girlfriend who had to recuperate from a cold she caught.
Wan Shou Zhai
I had xiaolongbao at a specific XLB place just once, when I went to Lu Xun’s residence in Hongkou. This is a VERY local spot. Line out the door, no foreigners, staff likely don’t speak–or want to–English. But its credibility speaks for itself. Very crowded spot, a dining room that the staff perhaps regard as an inconvenience to the craft of cranking out soup dumplings. Best Xiao Long Bao in Shanghai (Updated 2026) - NOMFLUENCE
Maotou Restaurant
Not my favorite spot, but this is objectively a very good restaurant. They specilaize in in Shanghainese classics, but revised for a generation younger than my parents (my mom noted the consistent use of aliums in dishes she did not recall ever having them in when she was growing up). We had a feast. They are known for their red-braised pork.
This restaurant is near Jing’an temple, a historic site in the city. It was recently purchased by a very prominent Thai buddhist temple, and so re-done with a lot of gold, and stands in stark contrast to surrounding architecture. It’s a popular area north of the French Concession with a lot of other sites/bars/etc.; theoretically your friend could do some site-seeing and hit dinner here.
(NB: Shanghai potato salad. Haipai classic! Currently trying to work on an updated version of this. I believe this potato salad grew out of various western merchants’ instructions to domestic workers to replicate European dishes in their homes in Shanghai at the turn of the 20th century. Over time it was integrated into “haipai” cuisine. My mom grew up eating this and we had it at new year’s dinner. )
kaofu!
Stir-fried fava beans in scallion oil. This hits.
hongshao rou. There’s a tealight candle underneath the dish.
Songhelou
So, I didn’t eat at the Songhelou in Shanghai. We had this at the overflow location in Suzhou. This restaurant is historic, operating as an eatery since 1757 (!). They are famous for Suzhou-style noodle soup, wich is a broth from pork & seafood, often eel. Broth is rendered super clear. Noodles are thin and wheat-based. Its resemblance to ramen is not accidental.
I’d say this dish is not to be missed while in Shanghai, or at least in the Jiangsu region. It is representative of Jiangsu cuisine.
That Saint Cavish has a great video about it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G0iIkmLnxpk&pp=ygUac2FpbnQgY2F2aXNoIHN1emhvdSBub29kbGU%3D
Bambino
Italian dude running a small and fun restaurant in Shanghai. He is over the top. Dude was screaming from the ktichen and the whole front dining room could hear him – “Pappardelle!” But some very solid food. Hard to get a res a couple days in advance; I don’t remember if they have a WeChat app, but we walked by the night before and asked to book us. They did not respond to a WeChat message I’d sent. This was very very solid.
(Ossobucco pie)
(polenta cake)
(Bambino greens)
(spagehetti)
Forage Eatery & Wine Bar
After the dinner at Maotou, Alex and I went to Forage, nearby our hotel (Dong Hu, the old one) in the French Concession. A wine bar that LA dreams of!
Solid selection of wines and some nice desserts. This place seems to be very foreigner friendly; all staff spoke English. Intimate and romantic inside.
No Filter Bar
Cocktails here twice on the trip. They have a restaurant next door, from which you can order dessert / food. Restaurant was packed, but we didn’t eat there. Young crowd.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CutEjaesIC1/?hl=en
Bird Hut Shanghai
Cantonese-style roast duck, pork, goose. So good. What else to say? Easy for lunch.
Coffee: Slab Town
Was the best coffee we had in China. Near the Dong Hu.
Wanted to Try: Ren He Guan
My cousin once-removed was also in town and tried to get a reservation here. Another Shanghainese restaurant with a Michelin star. Ren He Guan For Excellent Shanghainese Food & The Best Hong Shao Rou - NOMFLUENCE.
Had but Didn’t Get to Visit: Brewlosophy Beer
i had this beer at Yaya’s and was really impressed! They have a tasting room in town. https://www.timeoutshanghai.com/venue/Bars_-Bars_/88342/Brewlosophy.html