A new omakase opens, therefore I must report…
Sushi Masuyoshi represents the latest newcomer to the local sushi omakase scene. It is also perhaps the most intimate sushi-ya in SoCal, having only a 5-seat bar, with two seatings per evening. This tiny Culver City space belonged to the former brown-rice sushi-ya Shikibu on Washington Boulevard. Last week, owner/chef Hozumi Masuyoshi put on quite the energetic performance as dish after dish appeared in front of delighted guests. This one-man show (yes folks, he does absolutely everything himself here - clears the dishes, pours the drinks, etc.) managed to please each diner here at a level far, far above its punching weight of $165 per person. If still hungry, each guest can opt to continue the fun in bonus okonomi (a la carte) rounds beyond the omakase.
Hozumi-san comes from a private sushi catering background, and he proudly declares that Sushi Masuyoshi is his first brick-and-mortar venture. As for style, a meal at Sushi Masuyoshi strays quite a bit from strict edomae, but it does so in a great way which I think is perhaps even more pleasing to local Angelenos who are expecting a variety of cooked/grilled/fried preparations from their sushi experience. Chef Hozumi-san certainly cooked quite a lot during my meal; so much so I joked with him that this felt more like kappo than sushi.
Logistics: Reservations are available 5:00pm or 7:45pm, either via Tock or by DM’ing the restaurant directly. Street parking is easily available along this stretch of Washington Boulevard.
Space/Ambiance: Tiny 5-seater bar only (this setup could be definitely a fun and intimate buyout). Very cozy seats with open kitchen view. Bathroom is clean (Toto pending?). There is some smoke during his searing of certain dishes, and the ambient ventilation could be a bit stronger - But this was minor, and did not detract from my enjoyment of the meal. Music: Low volume soft jazz, with an occasional nod to Joe Hisaishi.
Service: Hozumi-san does it all, and does it well. No beer or liquor license yet. Complimentary tea.
Now, onwards to the food!
Gari: Two types of pickled ginger are available throughout the evening, young sliced ginger, and sweet diced baby ginger. Both were fantastic.
Fresh oyster special: Kusshi oyster (Hokkaido) in ponzu, with bafun uni (Hokkaido), Kaluga caviar, and gold garnish… Delicious.
Sashimi: Amaebi kobujime, smoked sawara, and shima aji… Outstanding. The smoking was done right in front of the guests!
Chawanmushi: Steamed with sake dashi, and presented with ankimo paste… I would have liked a bit more textural contrast, but it was nonetheless still tasty.
Negitoro temaki: A beautiful handroll, with diced takuan also… Every element was perfect here. The nori was bincho-roasted just before final prep. Huge bite! Hozumi-san says all too often guests are too full for the super handroll experience if it is served at the end of the meal, and so he places the temaki near the beginning!
Hirame three ways: Very creative! Hozumi-san prepared a flounder nigiri, then topped it with kimo (its own liver), and then topped it with the grilled flounder fin (engawa), meant to be dipped in sea salt! Eaten in two separate bites, first the engawa is enjoyed with volcanic salt. Then, the liver and nigiri as the second bite while the engawa afterglow lingers. Wow! Huge bites!
Ji-kinmedai: Premium kinmedai, bincho grilled, with a torch finish… This was oishi indeed, but not sure if I am worthy enough to distinguish this premium goldeneye snapper from a “regular” specimen, based on this dish…
Masunosuke: King salmon with kelp… Another superb dish. The kelp really kicks the experience up a notch.
Tempura: Yes, a fried dish intermezzo! Hotate (Hokkaido), shiso leaf, shishito… Hozumi-san’s frying technique is skillful and gentle, resulting in much eating enjoyment.
Interlude: Pickled daikon and cucumber serve to reset the palette…
Nodoguro: Finished with bincho, served in a small bowl with loose rice. The fattiness of the fish felt wonderful with the rice. Every fellow guest at the sushi bar agreed: Huge bite!
Prepping the neta for the next few dishes…
Aji: Futomaki-style really hit the spot! Shari note: The rice at Sushi Masuyoshi tends to be a bit lighter on vinegar. Temperature (to me) is perfect; on the loose side in terms of packing (but tighter on the rolls, of course)…
Honmaguro (akami): This piece of akami zuke showed me the seriousness of Hozumi’s craft.
Honmaguro (chu-toro): Negitoro, topped generously with caviar… Fireworks all around. Fabulous nodogoshi, too. Huge bite!
Honmaguro (o-toro): Looser-packed style. Simply butter. Luscious bite!
Bafun uni: Perfect examples of uni from the cold waters of Northern Japan…
Miso with amaebi stock: Mottainai sensibilities at work here: Hozumi-san uses the shrimp heads and shells to formulate a rich stock, chock full of tons of umami. He then proceeds to add it to his miso soup. Huge sip!!!
Anago: Served piping hot as it is placed on the rice. A marvelous mouthful.
Bonus rounds (before dessert): Hozumi-san handed me a different menu at this point, for further okonomi options beyond the omakase. At the bottom of the page, the menu mentions to “ask the chef about hidden items”. Of course, I am intrigued, and so I queried. The chef reached down behind the counter and brought out hotaru ika (firefly squid), baby barracuda, a live kegani (hairy crab), AND a live tsubugai (giant whelk)!
Tsubugai sashimi: Outstanding! The briny crunch of the whelk ranks right up there with mirugai, and perhaps more complex than geoduck in its taste. Huge bite!!!
Hotaru ika: Served with sweet and vinegary sumiso and ohitashi… Yum! First squids of the spring season.
Kegani three ways: With much expertise, Hozumi deftly broke down the crab, steaming the legs and extracting the muscles as well as the kani miso, as well as frying parts of the crab, right in front of us customers, for a tempura presentation. Heavenly! Huge bites again!
Kamasu: Flash searing of the skin with bincho, topped with salt… Sublime.
Dashimaki tamago: Traditional end of Hozumi-san’s dinner service, the tai and shrimp paste contained in the egg mixture really help this omelette stand out.
Panna cotta & hoji-cha: A lovely sweet bite with some meditative tea to cap off a stupendous omakase!
Combining elements of omakase, kappo, and even kaiseki, Hozumi-san’s unique omakase style convinced myself, and each fellow diner that evening, that we all need to schedule a return to Sushi Masuyoshi, and soon! Hozumi-san offers a lovely evening of sincere Japanese omotenashi through his humility, affability, diligence and ability.
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED.
Sushi Masuyoshi
10834 Washington Blvd.
Culver City, CA 90232
323.509.6155
@sushi.masuyoshi
booked.