Tesse in West Hollywood - Finally found a great omelet

Had brunch today at Tesse in West Hollywood and found the omelet of my dreams. A very traditional French omelet with gruyere and chives. It was sublime - in my opinion much superior to the omelet at Petit Trois.

To start, we had the salmon crudo - with jalapeno, cilantro and citrus – also delicious.

The space was very pleasant.

Sadly the restaurant was empty except for one other dining party. I don’t get it given that people line up down the street to have the extraordinarily mediocre food at The Butcher, The Baker, The Cappuccino Maker. Not only is that restaurant beyond mediocre, but it is more expensive than Tesse and the seating there is cramped and unpleasant.

Would definitely return to Tesse. I wasn’t too intrigued by the wine by the glass list, but perhaps the bottle list is more interesting.


That is good Intel. Omelettes done right showcase a certain degree of cooking proficiency.


You prefer Gruyere to Boursin?

Apparently so. That must be why I preferred the Tesse omelet. I think it was the Boursin in the Petit Trois omelet that didn’t hit the right notes for my palate.

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I enjoyed my brunch so much that I was finally able to try Tesse for dinner.

I am now officially a huge fan of Chef Raphael Francois and I love his traditional French cuisine, which strangely seems so new and novel in Los Angeles given the plethora of either “fusion” type restaurants or Italian, Italian, Italian.

We started with a loaf of country bread (served with delicious butter from Normandie) and a pate platter. We loved the pate platter. You get to choose which pates you want and we chose chicken liver parfait (actually a parfait, not a pate, but whatever it was, it was delicious), duck and fig terrine and pate du chef. They bring out the platter with great ceremony and the waiter uses tongs tableside to put pickled vegetables from a big vat onto the platter. He mentioned that the pickles were from a traditional recipe of Chef’s grandmother.

We also ordered smoked poblano beignets with emmental and tomme to start. Not earth-shattering, but very nice with a nice bite from the poblano.

By this time we were getting rather full, so for entrees we split the bucatini with duck prosciutto and bone marrow and an order of duck fat fries. The bucatini was good and the duck fat fries were amazing. To me, duck fat fries have in the past been one of those things that sounds great in concept, but often fall flat in execution. These were perfect and the side aioli was excellent. Would love to come back and just have a burger and duck fries, but would definitely need to skp the pate platter because no way could I eat that much food.

Finding a wine was a bit of a challenge for me. It’s a fairly long list, but there was no somm on duty and the list was heavy on wines with which I was not familiar and short on wines from my favorite French and Italian regions. I marched myself into the adjacent wine shop (you can buy a bottle there and have it sent to your table and I think they add a $25 fee or so). I am really big on low alcohol wines and the gentleman in the wine shop seemed dubious they had any wines with less than 14% alcohol. But after nosing around, I found a bottle of Nebbiolo which was only 13% alcohol. The gentleman in the wine shop was a little concerned I might not like the wine, because of the acidity – he said something about most of their customers preferring “smoother” wines (which may be true because the average customer in the restaurant seemed to skew '20 something or early '30 something, so perhaps they have just graduated from college keggers). I assured him that acidity would not only be fine, but was preferred in wine. We ended up liking the wine and it went well with the food.

Speaking of '20 something and early '30 something diners (I was clearly the oldest person in the restaurant), while the restaurant brings out a paper menu for wine and cocktails, we actually had to scan a barcode on the table to see the dinner menu on our phones, which I found highly annoying and uncivilized. I guess it is okay for the younger Instagram generation. :frowning: It does save money and I know restaurants run on razor thin margins, but perhaps they could have paper menu optional for the oldsters such as myself.

Anyway, I would definitely return to Tesse. Loved, loved the pates. Everything old is new again.


A 15-year-old Grumello, nice find.

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Have you tried the omelette are Farmshop? It’s been YRS since I had one there, but, IIRC, I thought they did a good job.

No I have not. Is it a traditional French omelette?

The paleo pancakes on the menu sound good.

Not an expert in omlettes by any means, but the pic in the Eater LA article (from several yrs ago), matches my memory of what we had:

I considered it a traditional French omelette.