The Lede - Old Oakland - Cal Peternell

Finally got around to trying this place. It opened in September in the old Pacific Coast Brewing space. Reportedly the restaurant came about because Peternell’s podcast producers took over the space (there’s a recording studio in the basement).

Originally it was lunch only but at some point they switched to dinner.

Order at the counter.

All that sesame made the bean crostini were really nice.

Gougeres were nice. After a few minutes a server brought out a sixth one saying they were still deciding how many should be in an order.

Duck ciccoli crostini were pretty good. Could have used a sharper element to cut the fat.

Next time I’ll say hold the olive oil. There were all these good sauces I wanted to sop up.

Never had fried endive before. Excellent idea.

Salad was great: carrots, watermelon radish, apples, I forget what that dark frisée is called, some unusual cilantro I didn’t even recogize at first. Anchovy with apple is unexpected but works. Talking with Peternell after dinner he said it’s in his book Almonds, Anchovies, and Pancetta: A Vegetarian Cookbook, Kind Of.

Paccheri with duck ragù was great.

Meatballs were fantastic. Assertively seasoned, very Italian except for all that nice rocket on top. There was a square of toast underneath to soak up the juices.

Tokyo turnips simply cooked in butter and salt. This is the kind of perfect dish that Soleil Ho didn’t appreciate when she panned Chez Panisse.

Chocolate wafers were nice, sesame crisps were fantastic, like crunchy Japanese rice crackers except less salty and slightly sweet. So good.

Panna cotta had a surprise earthy note from turmeric. I’m not a big dessert person but I loved this.

Nice wines by the glass. I particularly liked the Beck Blaufrankish. They have a full bar, cocktails $12.

The place was empty when we walked in a little after opening and not much busier a couple of hours later. That’s crazy given the relatively modest prices compared with other first-rate farm-to-table restaurants.


Olives and Snack Mix

Sardines in the tin w/ pickles, toasts, Dijon cream

Very crunchy sliced vegetable salad with smoky almond vin

on a piece of garlic bread

Torchio pasta alla puttanesca with tomato, olives, anchovies, capers

Rigatoni with Star Route Farm arugula pesto and sun-dried tomatoes

Pasta in the Tin

Sonoma County duck leg with chickpeas, roasted squash, Ruby Streaks mustard greens

Coconut panna cotta with Cara Cara oranges

Cookies! sesame crisps and chocolate wafers

1 Like