No luck on Yakitoriya (also I had no idea until just now that someone wrote an entire book on his Yakitori technique–that’s gonna be fun to dig into), but I am happy to say he’s still there. He personally walked the bowl to me at 11:40AM on a Thursday morning.
I went to Ramen Chikumo yesterday, which opened a few doors south last month. It’s a quality chicken paitan, relatively light (as far as paitan goes) with a fantastic pork char sui and decent homemade noodles. I believe they do their chicken sous vide; it’s very tender, but I personally have never enjoyed the texture of sous vide chicken. I found it very unfortunate they decided to open up next to Torisoba Sumiya. I enjoyed my meal there, but during the middle of it, I wished I had chosen Torisoba.
They have the best ramen on Sawtelle, the best chicken paitan in LA County, and I would argue that it’s one of the best bowls of ramen, in general, that we have. The noodles have perfect qq for me (erring on the side of quite firm). Great balance of thick cut and thinly shaved scallions. The broth is sublime–veering into gravy territory, but perfectly delicate, and it captures the essence of chicken flavor. It’s a refined boullion on steroids. I have no idea how they manage to achieve it, and I wish I had the words to describe it.
They also pay attention to some nice details you don’t usually find outside of Japan. If you have a bag, they’ll ask you if you’d like a foldable bin for it that they’ll place on the floor next to you.
I know a lot of people love the #1 and the immediate contrast of the charcoal flavor with the broth, but I very much prefer the pure taste of #2 with the chicken (or the combo chicken rice) on the side. You can experience both tastes separately, or mix and match, and you’re absolutely swimming in the aroma of charcoal with it just sitting nearby, either way.
Towards the end of the bowl, I like to add the smallest amount of yuzu kosho, which is transformative and goes a long way in cutting through the unctuousness.
(All that said, please do try to support Chikumo. We need more ramen places here that aren’t just yet-another-fucking-tonkotsu joint.)