>Kelly Pi pulled a container of buffalo brains out of her bag and removed the top to show me the meat, which sat in a pool of red liquid. She pointed to a fragment of black amid the pinks and whites of the tissue: “Look, you can see a little bit of the skull!”
>The brain slithered as she pulled it from its container and held it up for me to admire. Then, as though it were a juicy apple, she took a bite of the raw meat. “Mmmm,” she said. “This is so good.”
>It was August, and we were standing in the parking lot of an Amish farm in southeastern Pennsylvania. Kelly, a 30-year-old electrical engineer who lives in the suburbs of Philadelphia, drives her Honda Accord out to Amish country a few times a month to gather a supply of hormone-free, vaccine-free, corn-free, soy-free meat and dairy. She has long hair, a wide smile and a bubbly energy that came out in force as we surveyed the walk-in fridge at Amos Miller Organic Farm. “They have testicles!” she exclaimed. She wore a long patterned dress and filled her cart quickly — with pounds and pounds of beef, yellowish colostrum, three types of raw-milk ice cream, kefir water and, of course, buffalo brain, which she was excited to try because she normally ate beef brain.
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