Closing after almost a decade-long run at his West Los Angeles location (one which garnered him a Michelin star in 2019), Chef Shunji Nakao and his talented team have completed the relocation of Shunji Japanese Cuisine to new digs in Santa Monica! An impressive rebuild along Ocean Park Boulevard, this new restaurant location more closely mirrors the original vision held by Shunji-san.
Reflecting back upon 2020, Shunji-san says it was a tough year for everybody. With the suspension of dine-in business during that time, the restaurant tried to pivot to an outdoor format as well as offering takeout. But even during the hardship of surviving, as well as the prospect of moving to a new address, he never stopped dreaming about his cooking. While most of us were trying to figure out how to simply adjust to the new normal, Chef Shunji used the down time to conduct experimentation with new dishes, refining his already inimitable modern nihon-ryori style even further.
And this new iteration of Shunji Japanese Cuisine provides delicious proof that his hard work has paid off. Most of the dishes I tried during this preview tasting are brand new creations, conceived and brought to life in the test kitchen of Chef Shunji within the past year.
Birru… I was joined by intrepid veteran FTCers @CiaoBob and @chrishei, who came along for the ride for this, the inaugural preview dinner in Santa Monica!
Itadakimasu!
Yamaimo/Uni/Quail Egg/Caviar… A base of mountain yam provides support for this “egg egg egg” appetizer - Splendid!
Shigoku Oyster/Shiro Negi/Ponzu… The fun textural interplay here sets this oyster dish apart from the usual presentation. The master returns!
Matsutake Mushroom/Egg/Winter Melon… This is definitely not your usual chawanmushi. I won’t reveal the spoiler of how this dish succeeds on so many levels here; rather I’ll just mention that this was a tremendous combination of flavors I had never tried before - Huge Bite!
Sake time!!! Tsuchida, from sake sommelier Yuko-san’s home prefecture. What a wonderful match for the meal!
“Ebi Shunji-yo”… Lightly prepared and seasoned shrimp paste, with a moat of umami-rich saikyo miso, this is a gorgeous mix of tastes. This is a fun interpretation of the classic Ebi Shinjyo. Huge Bite!
Prep for the upcoming course…
Hirame/Myoga/Iri-Sake… A bit of history, as Shunji-san explains that before the advent of shoyu in the 8th-Century, hirame was served with umeboshi and sake to bring out its gentle profile.
Neta to come…
Honmaguro Zuke… Lean bluefin tuna from Boston, aged to perfect complexity. Huge Bite!
Katsuo Tataki/Nori… Using “returning” bonito (modorikatsuo) which are fattened in the north and swimming south for autumn, this course was deep. Spectacular!
Ankimo Terrine/Toast… Oishi!!! I caught every fellow diner at the counter trying to clean the ramekin of every single morsel of this treasure from the sea. The only issue I noted with this whipped monkfish liver dish is that I was only given one piece of toast to scoop up the beautiful terrine. Huge Bite!
Kamo/Piman… Duck breast with fat cap pairs so well with Japanese bell pepper!
Shoga… Time for the start of sushi nigiri courses! Shari was of the highest level, something we’ve come to expect from an itamae of Shunji’s caliber: Pearly, with each grain yielding a satisfying bite.
Madai…
Kinmedai…
Itoyori Dai…
Ishidai…
More neta being sliced…
Tachiuo Kobujime…
Honmaguro Chutoro…
Shima Aji…
Kamasu…
Buri Zuke…
Masu Zuke…
Honmaguro O-toro…
Preview of upcoming ingredients…
Ebi/Karasumi… Umami extreme! Incredible complexity between the chinmi and the sweet shrimp. Huge Bite. This begs for sake.
Ikura Gunkan… Perfect “pop” from each roe.
Aji…
Toro Temaki… The roasted nori was supremely crunchy - So great! Huge Bite!
Anago…
Kasutera Tamagoyaki…
Abura-Age/Enoko… Terrific way to finish off the sushi portion of dinner… Huge Bite.
Dessert time!!!
Hojicha Ice Cream/Japanese Kosui Pear… Housemade by Shunji-san, this ice cream is a frozen marvel.
The newest Santa Monica location of Shunji Japanese Cuisine represents a most triumphant return to form for Shuni-san and his team. Our preview meal, nearly flawless in pace, service and cuisine, was immensely satisfying. The numerous dishes which the chef debuted, some of which border on genius, demonstrate that he is still very much a vanguard of modern Japanese cuisine in the United States.
The main dining room features a counter (Shunji Bar) which seats seven (no tables). Omakase only - Two seatings will ultimately be offered per evening. In addition, on the other side of the sliding door, longtime sushi shokunin Miki-san, who has steadily built up a following of his own over the past years, will also offer the same omakase at his own counter (Miki Bar). Reservations for both Shunji Bar and Miki Bar will be via the Tock platform.
Dining at Shunji Japanese Cuisine takes guests on a sojourn to where concept, taste and texture are all meticulously curated and constantly dynamic. Shunji’s eponymous restaurant remains solid in its position among the top Japanese meals in Los Angeles.
HIGHLY RECOMMENDED.
Shunji Japanese Cuisine
3003 Ocean Park Bl.
Santa Monica, CA 90405
310.826.4737
shunji-ns.com
Yay, I can’t wait!
