The New Yorker on the Pelligrino "50 Best" lists

“It’s opening up in Beijing,” David Chang said, imagining the
archetypal 50 Best restaurant. “It’s a Chinese restaurant by a guy who
worked for Adrià, Redzepi, and Keller. He cooks over fire. Everything is
a story of his terroir. He has his own farm and hand-dives for his own
sea urchins.”