Max & Helen's - Larchmont Village

this is not going to help the lines

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taking reservations for christmas

https://www.opentable.com/restaurant/profile/1460491

love Nancy and have no feelings one way or the other about Phil.

i don’t want to get into the whole diner cosplay thing they’re doing here. i feel ill equipped, emotionally, to speak about this place, objectively. it’d just be a bunch of angry rhetoric.

i will defer to a guy who’s extremely humble and kind. he’s genuine and has been quietly promoting actual diner + long-standing establishments for a couple years now. he has a very mature take on this place

he was also running diner meet ups for a while, like when raising cane’s was taking over the Norm’s space and was threatening to close it down. really good dude, recommend following him if you love Los Angeles

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great link - thanks for bringing that here!

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Seems like his view is that they should use cheap ingredients to keep prices down.

What are some of his favorite “real” diners? He mentioned one place in Chinatown.

@robert i can’t get the link to work but if you search 1000 old school la eateries you should be able to find a map he created, it’s also in the dinertheory ig linktree

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The one in Chinatown pretty sure it’s Nick’s Cafe.

This comment in his substack reminds me very much on authenticity discussion of dishes which will be always a long discussion nobody can agree on a “final” verdict

“But Phil really insists that this is a neighborhood diner. He doesn’t want you to pretend, he wants you to believe the illusion. In that very specific way, the Tesla Diner might be more authentic than Max & Helen’s.”

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personally, i don’t feel like that’s the takeaway? he doesn’t mention ingredient costs and, also, stresses how much care there is put into the sourcing and food itself at Max & Helen’s.

i’m happy to pull a bunch of his better vids, if you’re sincerely interested, but his general thing is highlighting community spots that have been around for decades and 1) are on the verge of closing 2) are closing 3) or have closed.

full disclosure: i have absolutely no relationship with this man, have tried messaging him a few times, and he’s never once replied haha

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He mentioned costs of several items, including $26 for the patty melt without fries, and mentioned that bacon and eggs are cheaper there than at Nick’s Cafe.

He likes “real” diners and thinks they should be cheap, which is impossible without using cheap ingredients.

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a real diner should be a comfortable place for as wide a cross-section of its neighborhood as possible, and for the vast majority of neighborhoods, price is a significant component of that.

there’s nothing wrong with “cheap” ingredients - they are not a moral judgment on the people that eat them or use them.

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You generally can’t make food as good as good as Nancy Silverton’s buying whatever’s cheapest from Sysco.

The “neighborhood” this diner is in is Hancock Park/Larchmont so yeah the prices and quality is what’s expected tbh

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ehhh. there was a period were the night-shift cook at my local IHOP was 10000% on his game and making pattymelts that stacked up against chris kronner’s patty melts using sysco commodity ingredient

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As far as prices, the soup and the pancake were pretty competitive with other diners - I believe both items were priced exactly the same as S&P, though of course the patty melt was quite pricy. And to my great annoyance, fries are not included, priced separately at $8.

Hungry Harold’s uses store bought Texas Toast, Kraft singles, some plain old ground beef, and thinly sliced onions caramelized just to the point where they’re almost but not quite crispy, bleeding their essence into the melt. Hungry Harold’s is the patty melt I will always remember, that I’ll always be impressed by; not just because it’s cheap, but because it does so much with so little. Silverton does a fairly good job, but she starts with everything she could ever need, which makes the final product somewhat less impressive as an achievement even if it is technically “better” than Hungry Harold’s from a chef’s-eye view.

Max & Helen’s wants to be the future of the diner. If this venture is successful, the Rosenthals have indicated they might like to take it nationwide as a major chain. I don’t mind if this is one path diners might take in the coming years. I just don’t know if I want this to be the only future for the diner. A chain kind of inherently lacks a community-centric character that seems important to what a diner is.

Whatever critique I may have though, I think Max & Helen’s give us some reason to be hopeful for the future of American diners. Would I suggest that you eat at an old classic over a new, celebrity-backed diner-concept? Absolutely, but even I recognize that the future is pretty dim if we reject everything new that could be said for the diner and rely on the old-timers to stay around indefinitely. Because they won’t. They can’t.

his substack article seems pretty fair to me and he makes a lot of concessions in the price department (brings up a places the prices are comparable to, pressures on prices, having to raise prices for quality, etc.).

i think it’s alright to have a platonic ideal of an establishment and to make a case for it. it’s not like he’s not saying there’s no space for phil and nancy’s approach. we’re more open to having an image of a “perfect” classic steakhouse like Peter Luger’s, but get shy when cost (say, affordability) is considered integral to that ideal. some might prefer if all places aimed for the best quality and taste, but i think something a bit more mundane and normal can “perfect” in its own way.

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I dunno, I can see a small town where the local Denny’s or Carrows would be a community anchor or meeting point…

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don’t doubt it. im guessing he’s more talking about community-centric character backed by a sense of locality, but idk. think “inherently” is the key word here. homespun probably feels more community centric by nature (?), though you can make an anchor out of a Waffle House if you want or need to. individual lines can only tell us so much, and writing about this stuff at large inevitably gets a bit hand wavy and imprecise, haha.

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Yes, he brings up the cost of items on the menu. Mentioning that a patty melt costs $26, in a review, is worthwhile. He never says, or implies, anything about sourcing, or that they should be using cheap-ass Sysco ingredients. He also explicitly states how all diners, in general, are overpriced now.

The $$$ price point is not the takeaway. Shifting gears into my own opinions:

I think we’re seeing this from orthogonal angles. You’re right, there’s no question that the food is superb and the ingredients they use match that. People love it, and I am genuinely glad that they love it.

The thing is–M&H is trying to, quite literally, emulate spots that have existed and still exist, having somehow survived the COVID shutdown. Rae’s & Pann’s from the ‘50s, Dupars from the ‘30s, Eat at Joes & Gardena Bowl Coffee Shop from the ‘60s, etc. etc.

It is 2025 and this is the place setting for a table at M&H. It is a simulated experience of “days gone by,” down to grabbing shitty 1/8-ply napkins out of a dispenser.

Phil appears in several interviews talking about reviving diner culture and local community hangouts.

We’re not bereft of that. It’s everywhere.

You can walk into diners anywhere, sit at the counter, have a meal for about $11 and talk to all the old timers, who all know each other, and are known by the staff. You could stand in line for 2hrs for M&H and never see anyone around you again.

I genuinely pray this doesn’t become the model. A simulacrum of all the things we already have. Please support your local diners.

[Sorry to rant. Just how I feel about this place. I’m sure the quality of breakfast is fantastic for most people.]

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Anywhere? Where in Larchmont Village is such a place?

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“It is 2025 and this is the place setting for a table at M&H. It is a simulated experience of ‘days gone by,’ down to grabbing shitty 1/8-ply napkins out of a dispenser.”

I don’t understand why people feel nostalgia for this. To me it’s like: remember the good old days of bad food and oily fingers with the napkins falling apart? Yeah, I remember! Maybe others had some memorable social interactions at these places?

FWIW it seems to me that The Pantry is a very classic LA diner with a long line comprising a diverse cross section of the LA community. Nobody here sings its praises.